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South Astro Dome - Northeast Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bleed Between the Lines 
Breakfast of Champions 
Crimping Lessons 
Mamunia 
Middle Age Crazy 
Middle Age Crisis 
Middle Age Savage 
My Laundry 
Piggle Pugg 
Shooting Star 
Solid Gold 
Such a Savage 
Such a Waste 
Walking Pneumonia 

Middle Age Savage 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and Dave Mayville, 1993
Page Views: 697
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Mar 2, 2007
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Description 

Begin about 30 ft. left of Such a Savage and climb a ramp up to a bolt that protects a 5.9 move to an easier vertical crack. This leads directly to the third bolt of Such A Savage. Clip three bolts on Such A Savage, then move left, away from Such A Savage, and climb steep face past 4 more bolts (with the crux above the last bolt) to a 2-bolt anchor. 80 foot rappel. From the anchor you can also climb up and right to join Such A Savage for a second pitch (5.10a) to the top.


Protection 

8 bolts, optional pro for the crack



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By Bob Gaines
Mar 2, 2007

The upper section of the pitch has some of the best rock in Josh.

A direct start (10+) was also done just left of the starting ramp with a fixed pin, but it's long gone.