Middle Age Savage 5.12a/b
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| Type: | Trad, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Dave Mayville, 1994 |
| Submitted By: | Bob Gaines on Mar 2, 2007 |
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Description Begin about 30 ft. left of Such a Savage and climb a ramp up to a bolt that protects a 5.9 move to an easier vertical crack. This leads directly to the third bolt of Such A Savage. Clip three bolts on Such A Savage, then move left, away from Such A Savage, and climb steep face past 4 more bolts (with the crux above the last bolt) to a 2-bolt anchor. 80 foot rappel. From the anchor you can also climb up and right to join Such A Savage for a second pitch (5.10a) to the top.
Protection 8 bolts, optional pro for the crack
| Comments on Middle Age Savage |
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By Bob Gaines
Mar 2, 2007
| The upper section of the pitch has some of the best rock in Josh.
A direct start (10+) was also done just left of the starting ramp with a fixed pin, but it's long gone. |
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