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South Astro Dome - Northeast Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bleed Between the Lines TR 
Breakfast of Champions T 
Crimping Lessons S 
Mamunia S 
Middle Age Crazy T 
Middle Age Crisis S 
Middle Age Savage T 
My Laundry T 
Piggle Pugg T 
Shooting Star T 
Solid Gold T 
Such a Savage T 
Such a Waste TR 
Walking Pneumonia T 

Middle Age Crazy 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Herb Laeger, Mike Jaffe, and Dave Houser, February 1980
Page Views: 887
Submitted By: Dave M Snyder on Mar 2, 2009

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Description 

Start by clipping 2 bolts right of Solid Gold and then traversing up and right over easy terrain with optional cams for protection. Then begin stellar face climbing past 4 more bolts with engaging, heads up climbing between 5 and 6 that make the route memorable. Climb up to a 7th bolt then meander to the top with optional small cams in a crack on the left or by moving up & right over easy but unprotectable ground to the right.


Location 

Starts apx. 25' down and right of Solid Gold. There are 2 bolts at the top (1 old and 1 newer) w/o hangars. 2 raps down by Breakfast of Champions.


Protection 

7 bolts. Optional cams for the traversing runout between bolts 2 and 3. Optional medium sized cams for the top.



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By Bob Gaines
Mar 3, 2009
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13

This is one of the best Josh face routes!

By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

Steep and thin cranking on nasty sharp edges through the crux with some sporty runs up top. Solid to hard 10 off the ground. I thought the crux was from the stance above the easy section at bolt 3. The rock quality isn't the best here...perhaps some broken holds?

Relatively easy climbing for the 35 or so feet between bolt 2 and 3. You can plug gear in the flake system, but the rock is pretty poor.

The crux is well protected, other sections are not. Great position on the face.