Middle Age Crazy 5.11c/d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 190 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | Herb Laeger, Mike Jaffe, and Dave Houser, February 1980 |
| Submitted By: | Dave M Snyder on Mar 2, 2009 |
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Description Start by clipping 2 bolts right of Solid Gold and then traversing up and right over easy terrain with optional cams for protection. Then begin stellar face climbing past 4 more bolts with engaging, heads up climbing between 5 and 6 that make the route memorable. Climb up to a 7th bolt then meander to the top with optional small cams in a crack on the left or by moving up & right over easy but unprotectable ground to the right.
Location Starts apx. 25' down and right of Solid Gold. There are 2 bolts at the top (1 old and 1 newer) w/o hangars. 2 raps down by Breakfast of Champions.
Protection 7 bolts. Optional cams for the traversing runout between bolts 2 and 3. Optional medium sized cams for the top.
| Comments on Middle Age Crazy |
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By Bob Gaines
Mar 3, 2009
rating: 5.11c/d PG13
| This is one of the best Josh face routes! |
By Jonathan Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.11d PG13
| Steep and thin cranking on nasty sharp edges through the crux with some sporty runs up top. Solid to hard 10 off the ground. I thought the crux was from the stance above the easy section at bolt 3. The rock quality isn't the best here...perhaps some broken holds?
Relatively easy climbing for the 35 or so feet between bolt 2 and 3. You can plug gear in the flake system, but the rock is pretty poor.
The crux is well protected, other sections are not. Great position on the face. |
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