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This area is located about 400 yards past the Grotto, and contains some difficult longer sport climbs in the 5.11 - .12 range.
Most of the routes start on broken columns for about 15 feet or so, and then up the face of the rock. All of the routes are face climbs, and the climbing base area isn't nearly as developed as the routes of The Grotto or The Welcome Wall.
Approach time: 15 - 25 minutes.
From the point where Shell Road turns to dirt, the trailhead to The Welcome Wall, The Pit, Cave Wall, Ort Wall and Mid Wall is 1.2 miles further down road. There is a very steep turnaround on the left side of the road, but better parking can be had another few hundred yards past the trailhead. _BR_You'll know you're on the right trail when you see a telephone pole with the numbers 40 with an arrow to the left and 41 with an arrow to the right spray-painted on it just to the right of the trail (its about 25 yards from the road, and you won't be able to tell until you get closer). _BR_Once you're on the correct trail, it gets pretty simple. Follow the trail (watch out for poison oak) until it reaches a large talus field. Continue diagnally up and left as you're looking uphill on the talus, and soon you'll be beneath the Welcome Wall.
From the Welcome Wall, simply continue left and down another 2 minutes on the trail. You'll go down a steep trail between some rocks, and you fill find the Ort Wall on your left, The Grotto to the right, and The Cave Routes ahead and left.
Continue past the Grotto, and head away from the face of The Eastern Front between two large rocky sections in the talus field. You will head around the right-side rock and the rightmost overhanging Mid-Wall Arete will appear high above you. Head towards this Arete, where you will be able to see the bolts of the rightmost climb Funny Man (5.12a) 50 or so feet off the ground. Head up the talus towards this arete around the corner, where the other four climbs will appear above you.
Weather station 4.1 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Midwall
Calamine 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c CA
: Central Sierra
: ... : Midwall
This less climbed route features beta intensive but excellent moves up a face just right of a large curved arete. A committing move above the first bolt puts you out on the face of the route, which then moves up and left on gently overhung rock. Continue up to a crux just below the first pair of bolts, or continue on to the second anchor (140' up) where another crux section meets you before the anchors.The BAD part of this route is that you cannot avoid the large poison oak shrubs that surroun...[more] Browse More Classics in CA