A long, thrilling, and sustained climb originally lead with no fixed hardware. Even with cleaning and the addition of several bolts, it is still a great experience for a solid trad leader.
Microskunks wanders up discontinuous weaknesses on the north face of Microskunk Tower. Start by climbing a thin crack on the right side of the face. The crack leads to series of bolts arching to the left. The short section of poor rock gives way to a great 2" crack in the middle of the face. Ascend the crack until it narrows and a bolt appears on your left. Traverse left at the bolt to an offwidth. Head up the offwidth until it ends, then move right to a final crack leading to the anchor.
See overview photo.
Doubles to #3 Camalot. One #4 Camalot protects the final crack before the ledge.
Improbable start to a great line.
BETA PHOTO: EFR leading Microskunks with Cholla Coats
Jim having fun on Microskunks with Cholla Coats
Geir smokes Microskunks (again!)
Arjun midway up the climb
|By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich|
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Nov 2, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
A great, long, and fairly sustained climb. The crux moves are sweet!
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Nov 8, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
One of the earlier routes in LDE. Very sustained; seems more difficult each time I've been on it. The only route in LDE that doesn't top out (yet!).
Apr 27, 2010
I can't praise this route enough. IMO the best route at LDE. Solid four stars.
Kudos to Geir for leading this ground up sans the bolts. Balls to the Walls! Thanks for adding the bolts to make if great fun for the rest of us.
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 27, 2011
Marcy and I added a rap anchor to allow descent with a single 60m rope. It is on the far left side of the wall.
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 19, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Finally got on this route and it does indeed have the best sustained climbing in LDE. Loved it! Nice job, again, Marcy & Geir.
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 31, 2012
Now available at REI. Get one while supplies last!
| || Microskunk ornament |