Microskunks with Cholla Coats  5.10b

546 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 140 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Geir and Marcy New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Geir on Oct 11, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Geir on the FA. Note that bolts have been added a...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

A long, thrilling, and sustained climb originally lead with no fixed hardware. Even with cleaning and the addition of several bolts, it is still a great experience for a solid trad leader.

Microskunks wanders up discontinuous weaknesses on the north face of Microskunk Tower. Start by climbing a thin crack on the right side of the face. The crack leads to series of bolts arching to the left. The short section of poor rock gives way to a great 2" crack in the middle of the face. Ascend the crack until it narrows and a bolt appears on your left. Traverse left at the bolt to an offwidth. Head up the offwidth until it ends, then move right to a final crack leading to the anchor.

Location 

See overview photo.

Protection 

Doubles to #3 Camalot. One #4 Camalot protects the final crack before the ledge.

Photos of Microskunks with Cholla Coats Slideshow

Add Photo

BETA PHOTO: EFR leading Microskunks with Cholla Coats	Geir smokes Microskunks (again!)	Jim having fun on Microskunks with Cholla Coats
Improbable start to a great line.	Arjun midway up the climb

Comments on Microskunks with Cholla Coats

Add Comment

Show which comments — All Comments (6) Just Beta and Conditions (6) Just Conversational and Off-Topic (0)

By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC Nov 2, 2009 rating: 5.10b

A great, long, and fairly sustained climb. The crux moves are sweet!

By Marcy From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ Nov 8, 2009 rating: 5.10+

One of the earlier routes in LDE. Very sustained; seems more difficult each time I've been on it. The only route in LDE that doesn't top out (yet!).

By Jimbo Apr 27, 2010

I can't praise this route enough. IMO the best route at LDE. Solid four stars. Kudos to Geir for leading this ground up sans the bolts. Balls to the Walls! Thanks for adding the bolts to make if great fun for the rest of us.

By Geir From: Tucson, AZ Nov 27, 2011

Marcy and I added a rap anchor to allow descent with a single 60m rope. It is on the far left side of the wall.

By arjunmh From: Phoenix, AZ Nov 19, 2012 rating: 5.10

Finally got on this route and it does indeed have the best sustained climbing in LDE. Loved it! Nice job, again, Marcy & Geir.

By Geir From: Tucson, AZ Dec 31, 2012

Now available at REI. Get one while supplies last! Microskunk ornament Submitted By: Geir on Dec 31, 2012