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Little Eiger area - ice
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Coors Light Exit Crack T 
Coors Lite T 
Mickey's Big Mouth T 
Red Stripe 

Mickey's Big Mouth 

WI2-3

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus: WI2-3 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Winter
Page Views: 4,028
Submitted By: Chris Zeller on Jan 13, 2001

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Dissecting ice.

Description 

This climb forms a 1st pitch 30 feet, broad 70-90 degree flow with several variations. The right hand side holds thick ice interrupted by a small ledge or two for placing gear. The left hand side sports a thin section of nearly vertical ice. Some mixed climbing can be had on the cliff to the extreme left hand side of the flow.

There is a second pitch above which often forms a fun WI2+, 60', pitch. It had a bush rappel which was improved to a 2 bolt rap.

Descent: Scramble down rocks to the right of the climb. P2 has 2 or 3 sets of anchor bolts.


Protection 

Screws. A few stubbies may be useful for some lines.


Toprope Protection 

The 3-bolt/chain anchor in the boulder has been removed. This anchor was in terrible condition and needed to be replaced. This assessment was based on many climbers who I have talked to and also my personal knowledge of anchor systems. A new 2 bolt camouflaged chain anchor has been added as of 7-19-04. The location of the new anchor is to the right and is attached to a 8' high rock buttress. Another bolt was added next to an existing bolt and chains were installed as well. This new anchor is above the left side of Mickey's 1st pitch.

Pitch 2 now sports 2 nice 2 bolt anchors.



Photos of Mickey's Big Mouth Slideshow Add Photo
A window of freedom.
A window of freedom.
Mickey's 1st pitch right side.
Mickey's 1st pitch right side.
Mark Bower on the 2nd pitch in fat conditions.
Mark Bower on the 2nd pitch in fat conditions.
Climber topping out on Mickey's....
Climber topping out on Mickey's....
When Mickey's Big Mouth's upper pitch was little known.
When Mickey's Big Mouth's upper pitch was little k...
Mark Radlauer, 2nd pitch, conditions on 1/22/03.
Mark Radlauer, 2nd pitch, conditions on 1/22/03.
Nice ice job!
Nice ice job!
Nice Pro! Climbing early season ice. 12/1/04.
Nice Pro! Climbing early season ice. 12/1/04.
Sat, Dec 11, 2004.  It was 60 degrees outside.
BETA PHOTO: Sat, Dec 11, 2004. It was 60 degrees outside.
First pitch, fat ice in 2007.
First pitch, fat ice in 2007.
2/19/06.
2/19/06.
Fun mixed climb at the left edge of the upper falls. The climber's left set of anchors are good for TRing this.
Fun mixed climb at the left edge of the upper fall...
Heading up the 2nd pitch of Mickey's (2/1/07).
Heading up the 2nd pitch of Mickey's (2/1/07).
Mike rappin' after the 1st ascent of "Moonshine".
Mike rappin' after the 1st ascent of "Moonshine".
Comments on Mickey's Big Mouth Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 21, 2010
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Nov 7, 2002

There is a second pitch above which forms when there is actually water draining in this gully. It is pictured in the 1st picture. Interesting descent off a slung bush or V-thread (now replaced with 2, 2 bolt anchors). Ice gets thin at the top. Perhaps 60 feet.

By Matt Ledges
Jan 12, 2003

Had a surprisingly good afternoon here today. It's about as good as this climb ever gets. While it rings in at about 2+, there's a great mixed route to the left with several variations, just a veneer of ice for 25-30 ft, that ranks at a M5. Recommended before it gets too warm. As of today, this is the only bit of climbable ice in the canyon.

By Patrick McGaugh
Feb 7, 2003

Just got back from doing the second pitch. It was a little leaner than in the photo but all the fresh snow kept it exciting. The first pitch is growing but it looked too fragile for me. This was my first lead so I have no clue what the grade is, I just know that it was fun.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Feb 24, 2003

For clarification purposes: Mickey's is not a "stepped flow" as AC describes it. It is 2 short pitches separated by perhaps a 100m of walking in a gully with an easy boulder move in between the pitches. Further, above P2, honestly, there has not been enough ice to "leave a screw" leave a screw. I believe AC is mistakenly referring to Coors Lite. Finally, after walking perhaps another 1/2 mile above P2 in search of more ice, there is not much up there. Walking down after P2 is not reasonable option.

By Brian T.
Mar 3, 2003

Someone stole the rap rings from the top of the 2nd pitch. My only question is WHY? Heres some advice: sell your gear and take up golf. Thanks

By Brian T.
Aug 6, 2003

At the top of the 2nd pitch is a new chain anchor to lower from. To find it, look up and left (behind the big rappel bush) at the top of the flow.

By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jan 11, 2008
rating: WI3-

There is a fixed pin on the second pitch right hand side which is only available in early season. This is a great pitch for a beginning leader.

By Mark McConnell
Jan 7, 2009

Where'd the pipe go?

I finally got up there tonight to see what was going on and noticed that the farmed ice was gone... anyone know why? I suspect the pipe helped the rest of the flow to form so large in the past few years.

By Dustin Clelen
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 21, 2010

Does anyone have any more information on the mixed route just left of the second pitch? It's pretty cool, and fairly well protected (bolts). Also great as a TR due to some conveniently placed bolts above. Any names or ratings?

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 21, 2010

Might be Moonshine, ~M4-5.