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Mickey's Beach

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Center Bouldering Rock 
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Egg, The 
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Stinson Beach 
Tennessee Valley Beach 

Mickey's Beach 


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Location: 37.8886, -122.6327 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 101,725
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 18, 2002
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Doug Engelkirk on the once infamous Mickey's Beach...

Description 

Mickey's Beach offers some of the toughest sport climbing in the area, along with some interesting bouldering. Almost all climbs are on the beach, and some are tide dependant. The area can be quite windy, making some of the balancy moves more interesting. Climbs offered range from beginning to expert.

The whole area is free.

A brief bit of history tells that the bouldering area west of the main rock was once a part of the hillside, and in a huge storm in 1986 it fell into the surf as one large chunk. Seven days later, the rock split into pieces, directly in front of an unsuspecting picnicing couple.

The main rock also had some storm trouble. In 1993 a huge storm knocked several classic climbs off the main rock and into the ocean, including a classic 5.12 finger crack known as Mickey's crack. A word of caution for people who travel to Mickey's beach, which is that it's a spot frequented by a rather large group of nudists, so if that bothers you, you should probably climb some place else.


Getting There 

From S.F. Take the 1 north. Follow the signs to Stinson Beach. Follow the road down the canyon, and then follow it down the beach. It's a ways, but the main parking lot is .3 miles north of the sign to the Steep Ravine campground and cabins. This sign is on the left side of the road.

From the east bay: Take 580 west to the 101 south, until it intersects with the 1, then follow the above directions.


39 Total Routes


['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',5],['5.11',5],['5.12',9],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',8],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mickey's Beach:
Nudist Side Jug Haul   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   Center Bouldering Rock
Diagnol Ramp   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   Danger Rock (or Orange Budd...
Orange Pleasure (right finish)    V5 6C     Boulder, 10'   Danger Rock (or Orange Budd...
Orange Buddha Arete   V7-8 7B     Boulder   Danger Rock (or Orange Budd...
Green Eggs and Ham   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   The Egg
Rust Never Sleeps   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Grey Slab
Sign Language   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 70'   The Egg
Walkin' a Thin Line   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Rock
Egghead   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c R     Sport, 60'   The Egg
Courtney   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Rock
Pelicans   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Rock
Hot Tuna   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Main Rock
Sex Porpoises   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Rock
Wet Dreams   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Main Rock
Browse More Classics in Mickey's Beach

Featured Route For Mickey's Beach
Egghead, with base of Sign Language in the background.  The worst (ie the start) is over.

Egghead 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c CA : SF Bay Area : ... : The Egg
This route is the leftmost route on the north face of the rock. It can be seen from the downhill approach.This is a TOUGH "5.11b". Clip the 1st bolt before you get off the ground or you'll really be sorry. Finding the non-existant feet on the bottom part of the route is what makes this tough, though if you're flexable there's another (scary) option. This is a 5.11b after you get to the second bolt, where the climbing gets searchy, reachy, and interesting. The lieback at the top is great fun if y...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Mickey's Beach
Photos of Mickey's Beach Slideshow Add Photo
Peter Mayfield on Plato Shrimp, which also no longer exists due to it falling into the Pacific, photo: Bob Horan Collection
Peter Mayfield on Plato Shrimp, which also no long...
The big bouldering rock fell apart.  The V9 is no more and I think one of the face climbs is affected.
BETA PHOTO: The big bouldering rock fell apart. The V9 is no ...
Sulli on a fun Mickey's Beach traverse <br />photo: Telly Fry
Sulli on a fun Mickey's Beach traverse
photo: Tell...
Bouldering at Mickeys.
Bouldering at Mickeys.
Bouldering at Mickey's Beach, photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Bouldering at Mickey's Beach, photo: Bob Horan Col...
Endless Bummer Rock, south of Mickey's Beach. Home to Endless Bummer 13b, and Surf Safari 14a. Usually fixed. Bring draws. It's windy.
Endless Bummer Rock, south of Mickey's Beach. Home...
Comments on Mickey's Beach Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 22, 2003

Currently, highway 1 from San Francisco is closed to traffic going to Mickey's Beach fromthe South. To get here, instead of following the 1, follow the detour that heads toStinson Beach, and once you get to the fork where the detour hits the 1, hang a LEFT andthe Mickey's Beach pullout will be about .7 miles on your right.Heading a right at thefork will lead you into the touristy beach town of Stinson Beach, where there is food andsupplies.

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 25, 2003

No more construction, but you might want to keep note, since there probably will be again at some point, since California is, after all, falling into the Ocean.

By Adam Block
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 5, 2008

I was pretty sad to find this spot on accident and not have any gear. I was just driving down one and decided to take a walk. I did spend a little time sizing things up and I have to say, it's an amazing spot to get some climbing in. Being from AZ I'm putting a lot of weight on the water being right there but even the routes look great. I can't wait to get back that way and get on the rocks...

As a warning, the areas seems like a very safe place to park and leave your car however when we got back to the car ours and another had broken windows. It was daylight (5pm) and there was a cop sitting within eyesight (close enough we just walked over to tell him). I guess it's pretty common there so take what you can, put everything else in the trunk or well out of eyesight...

By Michaeld916
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 23, 2013

ENDLESS BUMMER ROCK
Surfin Safari - 13d/14a
Endless Bummer 13b

I found the rock on google maps at the following location:

37.877671, -122.618599

Copy and paste those coordinates into google maps and zoom in. You should see a shadow, that's the rock. You can see a faint trail, and it was faint when I was there last year.

I had just got an email asking where it was, and I might as well spread the beta!