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Mickey's Beach

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Mickey's Beach  


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Location: 37.8886, -122.6327 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 122,539
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 18, 2002
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Doug Engelkirk on the once infamous Mickey's Beach...

Description 

Mickey's Beach offers some of the toughest sport climbing in the area, along with some interesting bouldering. Almost all climbs are on the beach, and some are tide dependant. The area can be quite windy, making some of the balancy moves more interesting. Climbs offered range from beginning to expert.

The whole area is free.

A brief bit of history tells that the bouldering area west of the main rock was once a part of the hillside, and in a huge storm in 1986 it fell into the surf as one large chunk. Seven days later, the rock split into pieces, directly in front of an unsuspecting picnicing couple.

The main rock also had some storm trouble. In 1993 a huge storm knocked several classic climbs off the main rock and into the ocean, including a classic 5.12 finger crack known as Mickey's crack. A word of caution for people who travel to Mickey's beach, which is that it's a spot frequented by a rather large group of nudists, so if that bothers you, you should probably climb some place else.


Getting There 

From S.F. Take the 1 north. Follow the signs to Stinson Beach. Follow the road down the canyon, and then follow it down the beach. It's a ways, but the main parking lot is .3 miles north of the sign to the Steep Ravine campground and cabins. This sign is on the left side of the road.

From the east bay: Take 580 west to the 101 south, until it intersects with the 1, then follow the above directions.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.6 miles from here

42 Total Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',5],['5.11',5],['5.12',10],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',9],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mickey's Beach:
Nudist Side Jug Haul   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   Center Bouldering Rock
Diagnol Ramp   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   Danger Rock (or Orange Budd...
Orange Pleasure (right finish)    V5 6C     Boulder, 10'   Danger Rock (or Orange Budd...
Don't Worry be Slappy   V6 7A     Boulder   Danger Rock (or Orange Budd...
Orange Buddha Arete   V7-8 7B     Boulder   Danger Rock (or Orange Budd...
Green Eggs and Ham   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   The Egg
Rust Never Sleeps   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Grey Slab
Walkin' a Thin Line   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Rock
Sign Language   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   The Egg
Egghead   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Sport, 60'   The Egg
Courtney   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Rock
Left Slab   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Main Rock
Pelicans   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Rock
Hot Tuna   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Main Rock
Sex Porpoises   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Rock
Wet Dreams   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Main Rock
Browse More Classics in Mickey's Beach

Featured Route For Mickey's Beach
Heading into the crux.

Sex Porpoises 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  CA : San Francisco Bay : ... : Main Rock
This is the rightmost route on the southwest face of the main rock. To access this route, you can walk around the right side of the main rock at low tide, but at high tide it's probably best to find a path down the slippery section on the south side of the rock from the main junction that you would take to get to the top of the main rock. This route has a little bit of everything. Powerful pulls, balancy sections, roof sections and near vertical bouldering sections. The route is pretty susta...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Local Information for Mickey's Beach
Photos of Mickey's Beach Slideshow Add Photo
Peter Mayfield on Plato Shrimp, which also no long...
Peter Mayfield on Plato Shrimp, which also no long...
The big bouldering rock fell apart.  The V9 is no ...
BETA PHOTO: The big bouldering rock fell apart. The V9 is no ...
Sulli on a fun Mickey's Beach traverse photo: Tell...
Sulli on a fun Mickey's Beach traverse photo: Tell...
Bouldering at Mickeys.
Bouldering at Mickeys.
Bouldering at Mickey's Beach, photo: Bob Horan Col...
Bouldering at Mickey's Beach, photo: Bob Horan Col...
Endless Bummer Rock, south of Mickey's Beach. Home...
Endless Bummer Rock, south of Mickey's Beach. Home...

Comments on Mickey's Beach Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 22, 2003
Currently, highway 1 from San Francisco is closed to traffic going to Mickey's Beach fromthe South. To get here, instead of following the 1, follow the detour that heads toStinson Beach, and once you get to the fork where the detour hits the 1, hang a LEFT andthe Mickey's Beach pullout will be about .7 miles on your right.Heading a right at thefork will lead you into the touristy beach town of Stinson Beach, where there is food andsupplies.
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 25, 2003
No more construction, but you might want to keep note, since there probably will be again at some point, since California is, after all, falling into the Ocean.
By Adam Block
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 5, 2008
I was pretty sad to find this spot on accident and not have any gear. I was just driving down one and decided to take a walk. I did spend a little time sizing things up and I have to say, it's an amazing spot to get some climbing in. Being from AZ I'm putting a lot of weight on the water being right there but even the routes look great. I can't wait to get back that way and get on the rocks...

As a warning, the areas seems like a very safe place to park and leave your car however when we got back to the car ours and another had broken windows. It was daylight (5pm) and there was a cop sitting within eyesight (close enough we just walked over to tell him). I guess it's pretty common there so take what you can, put everything else in the trunk or well out of eyesight...
By Michaeld916
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 23, 2013
ENDLESS BUMMER ROCK
Surfin Safari - 13d/14a
Endless Bummer 13b

I found the rock on google maps at the following location:

37.877671, -122.618599

Copy and paste those coordinates into google maps and zoom in. You should see a shadow, that's the rock. You can see a faint trail, and it was faint when I was there last year.

I had just got an email asking where it was, and I might as well spread the beta!
By natfjones
Jun 27, 2014
Does anyone know whether dogs are allowed at Mickey's?
By John Groh
Aug 18, 2014
It doesn't seem to be listed on MP or in the Bay Area Rock guide, but there's a super fun sidepull compression problem just around the corner from Grace Face on the uphill side of the rock. It felt V4ish. Here's a picture of the problem if you're trying to find it:
not sure what this problem is called
not sure what this problem is called


I'd be curious to know the name if anyone knows.