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Unsorted Routes:

Mickey Finn 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ron Amick, Rick Allenby, 1978
Page Views: 729
Submitted By: mschlocker on Aug 5, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Both lead bolts and an anchor bolt of Mickey Finn ...

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Description 

Thin face climbing that will force you to work on good footwork leads to a cool lieback on the Finn past frictiony rock. A few more moves will take you to the anchor that appears to have been moved up and left since the FA.

Apparently you can toprope an 11 to the left of this climb on the same anchor (haven't tried it yet).

I'd give it 3 stars but it is short, even for the gorge.


Location 

Starts above the anchors for Mariah and Hangman's in a wide chimney. A short climb in an obscure area makes an available alternative when in the area. A hiker can get even with the middle of the climb making for a good photo op if you have an extra person handy.


Protection 

2 bolts / bolt anchor. Both lead bolts were replaced 6/2007. Anchors look bomber. Walk off top.



Photos of Mickey Finn Slideshow Add Photo
Mickey Finn from another angle.  Glare highlights the thin but fun hands and feet!
BETA PHOTO: Mickey Finn from another angle. Glare highlights ...
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By Josh Cameron
Jun 6, 2011

I agree with the quality rating. It's a surprisingly fun climb, but quite short. Despite the length, I found it just as good (if not better) than most Mission Gorge classics.

When leading, I found it a little intimidating getting to the first bolt, but after that I felt very well protected.

By The Keels
Sep 11, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

The crux of the climb comes after you clip the first bolt and must manuever to the flake. Try an easier variation (5.10a) by stemming/chimneying off the back wall until you reach the flake. Once you have grabbed that flake transition to the face and finish Mickey Finn as usual.

By AlexK
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I was pleasantly surprised to find this route after leading Crack of Dust. It is tragically short, but probably some of the most interesting and fun slab climbing I've ever done. I think 10b is a little sandbagged, but I'll take it. The thin holds just make this one a little heady. Don't you dare use the back wall!