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Mickey B Way 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a R

   
Type: Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 352
Submitted By: John Knight on Oct 7, 2011
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Description 

Wide Crack Testpiece of the Central Coast.


Location 

The obvious wide crack roof that sits under the highest block on the mountain.


Protection 

Gear to 4". Armbars, Chicken wings, Stacks, and Titanium Testicles. (Or titanium forearms for the female variety)



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By Aaron InternetHardman Stireman
From: San Luis Obispo, California
Jan 28, 2013

Stack in the opening and find a big undercling. Deep cammed feet are the key. Fist and hands section is straightforward, but it's deep commiting jams with hands and ankles alike. Redpoint crux for me was moving from the hands section back to OW just before the horn. Exit section felt 5.8 and took good gear. Easy to preplace all but the final lip, no wide gear needed.