Mickey B Way
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Wide Crack Testpiece of the Central Coast.
The obvious wide crack roof that sits under the highest block on the mountain.
Gear to 4". Armbars, Chicken wings, Stacks, and Titanium Testicles. (Or titanium forearms for the female variety)
|By Aaron InternetHardman Stireman|
Jan 28, 2013
Stack in the opening and find a big undercling. Deep cammed feet are the key. Fist and hands section is straightforward, but it's deep commiting jams with hands and ankles alike. Redpoint crux for me was moving from the hands section back to OW just before the horn. Exit section felt 5.8 and took good gear. Easy to preplace all but the final lip, no wide gear needed.