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 ADVANCED
True Summit Block
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asymptote S 
Cunning Linguist TR 
Malnourished S 
Meltdown S 
Mickey B Way T 
Sidewinder T 
Sunset Arete TR 
True Summit Direct S 
Unnamed Free Route TR 
Vertigo T,S 

Mickey B Way 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 619
Submitted By: John Knight on Oct 7, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Wide Crack Testpiece of the Central Coast.

Location 

The obvious wide crack roof that sits under the highest block on the mountain.

Protection 

Gear to 4". Armbars, Chicken wings, Stacks, and Titanium Testicles. (Or titanium forearms for the female variety)


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By Internet Hardman
From: EARTH
Jan 28, 2013

To start, find a big undercling and stand on a block at the beginning of the crack. Deep heel toe cams and chicken wings are the key, although this section has gone down wild west inverted, too (feet straight into the roof). Find some crimps to exit the wide...fist and hands section is straightforward, but it's deep committing jams with hands and ankles alike. Redpoint crux for me was moving from the hands section back to OW just before the exit horn. Horizontal crack exit section felt 5.8 and took good gear. Easy to pre-place all but the final lip, no wide gear needed.
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