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The Wedge
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Mica Folly T 

Mica Folly 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Jeremy Bauman and Casey Eales
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 572
Submitted By: Jeremy Bauman on Apr 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Climbing the first pitch


Start climbing up the pinches to the offwidth (crux) that takes a good #6 or sketchy #5 camelot. Continue climbing to a ledge with a small roof above with a good .4 placement. Pull around the roof (crux) and continue up face climbing on beautiful granite until you reach a small roof under a yellow over-haning bit of rock. Traverse left to a large roof and belay. Climb up and right slinging a rock horn off the belay. Climb up and right towards the two small trees over a lot of loose terrain. Angle back left to a short headwall. Start climbing the scary headwall (crux) and traverse right to a good side pull. Continue up and right to the top.

Descent: See Wedge description. Or, you could probably do a double rappel from the tree just above and left of the pitch 1 belay. This may be the recommended option as pitch 2 is very loose, runout, and the headwall has some committing moves before pro is available. Note* we have NOT tried this rappel yet and it is unconfirmed whether or not the ropes will touch the ground. Tie knots in your rope!


After reaching the base of the Wedge, hike around its left side and locate the cairn at the base of Mica Folly (see start photo).


Cams 0- #5 or #6, nuts, slings (for rock horns). There isn't much pro on the route, but the cruxes are well protected and the gear is solid.

Photos of Mica Folly Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Route Topo
BETA PHOTO: Route Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Start of Mica Folly 5.8.
BETA PHOTO: The Start of Mica Folly 5.8.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the pitch 1 belay
BETA PHOTO: At the pitch 1 belay

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By CaseyE
Apr 13, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I recommend rapping after the first pitch(note still untested) the second pitch is very loose and it seems more like 4th class scrambling until you get to the small headwall. With a 20-30 minute walk off just rappel.

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