M.I.C. Exit [aka Parable of the Cave] 5.10d R
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is an exit pitch from the Cave near the top of the Book. If you belay at the base of the sandard exit for the Cave this route follows the crack just to your left coming out of the left side of the roof. It is one crack to the right of Final Chapter. Either climb up through the left side of the roof (not much pro) or move left and climb thin features on the face until you can reach right into the crack. Jam and lieback up and right (crux) blindly placing gear between grass filled sections of the crack. The options for pro are ok but not hugely abundant, it is difficult to see the placements and if even one piece were to pull out in a fall it could be nasty. Belay at a tree and continue up 4th class to Outlander's 2nd pitch or walk off to the right.
Protection Standard rack.
| Comments on M.I.C. Exit [aka Parable of the Cave] |
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By paco Aug 18, 2002
| Everyone has a different opinion of each climb and I feel obligated to call this one a bomb. Greenery, not so solid rock and flared cracks inc. The worst exit wall climb I've done. |
By S. Kimball Aug 20, 2002
| For the record this is: Parable of the Cave, and Paco's right about its net worth. |
By Mic Fairchild From: Boulder Mar 13, 2006
| Regarding M ountainneer's I nside C orner: It might be true that Outlander and Cheap Date are more aesthetic, but this one is definitely more historic. Most now credit Sibley with an early ascent. What are you waiting for? Are you going to traverse-off your whole life? |
By kirkadirka From: Boulder Jul 21, 2011
| I'll go ahead and disagree with paco as well. I thought this was a pretty good pitch. Slightly harder than Cheap Date. Thoughtful, thin climbing at the bottom and slightly awkward jamming through the upper bit. Takes good gear. |
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