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The crux roof on P1...
This is THE standard for 5.9 routes at the Gunks. It is a must do for a visiting climber. The route is located to the right of Three Pines on the right side of the Mac Wall.
The MF access trail is about a 6-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 2-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. The trail leads to the base of the climb at a 20'-high thin crack. This is about 80' right of Something Interesting.
P1: Climb the crack and face below the overhang, making a slight jog to the left. Place gear in the horizontal to the right (or clip the piton) and pull right through the overhang onto the small ledge. You'll need to make a few moves before you get your next gear. The final moves up and left through the headwall will test your endurance. A stimulating lead; 5.9, 80'.
P2: Traverse right though a left-facing corner and through the notch in the roof. Continue upwards to a horizontal traverse to the left. Follow the right-facing dihedral to the GT Ledge. 5.9, 80'.
There is a bolted anchor atop P1; from P2, either climb easier rock to the cliff top, then rappel the bolted line 50' to climber's left, or descend with two ropes to the ground.
Gear to 3".
Becky Diamond underneath the MF crux
Clipping the pin beneath the crux.
Post-crux. What do you mean the pin's gone?
On to the second crux.
Scott doing the direct variation on P1.
The second roof crux of MF, which is part of the s...
MF Direct. (going straight up after the crux inste...
Dave S. climbing MF
Adam above the pitch 1 crux of MF (5.9)
John linking MF
From: Spfld, Ma
Jul 4, 2006
MF is a blast, althought a scary blast. The 1st pitch wasn't over till I got to the anchor. The 2nd pitch roof is easy and has good pro. Not a good choice for your 1st 5.9. Also a great candidate for twins or doubles. That all said, it's a climb like Shockley's or Bonnies (with the Direct variation) that should be climbed every year until they confine me to a wheel chair.
|By Tristan Perry|
May 11, 2007
This is an absolutely great climb! The first pitch is both pumpy and scary. Gear is not obvious above that roof, and it's all too tempting to keep making stenuous moves as the gap between body and gear grows! The second pitch is devious but easier in my opinion, and just as cool as it wanders up the beautiful face above. These two pitches, served with Dangler, make for three exemplary pitches of 5.9 climbing.
Feb 19, 2008
Essential route. Personally, of the three hard sections I found the first overhanging corner the easiest. Looks intimidating from stance after clipping pin, but just a matter of committing and grabbing big hold on nose. (Rope was behind my left leg and pinned me halfway through the sequence swinging onto face.) Bulge after that quite strenuous and requires more moves. Most folks probably consider roof beginning second pitch an afterthought. I did, and had to really pump to make it. Wonderful climb.
|By eric larson|
From: aurora, co
Apr 22, 2008
as the DW guide says, this is the standard 5.9 in the gunks. unfortunately it gets the top rope train run on it so it can be a pain to get on... but the beauty of the gunks is that if one three star climb is taken there is a pick of a million others!
|By Dana Bartlett|
May 12, 2008
In 1976 I had done a lot of 'Gunks 5.8s, and I asked around for an easy 5.9. Everyone recommended MF, and my climbing log from back then reads: "No falls, seemed fairly easy for 5.9." I did it 2-3 years ago, and it seemed pretty stiff for the grade. Time marches on.
Jun 8, 2009
great route and raises the eyebrow for the grade. i have only climbed at the gunks a few times, so i am not necessarily dialed-in, but it seemed fairly fierce for the grade. i thought it was harder than p-38, doubleissima, low exposure, nosedive, or probably any other 5.10 i have done at the gunks. for me, probably one of the hardest 5.9s i have done anywhere.
the first crux seemed way improbable, but luckily you can always back down to a good rest, swear a bit, and go up and check it out again. it probably took me an hour of going up and down, peeking around the corner like a prairie dog (or chipmunk in your neck of the woods), saying "i don't see anything", repeat.... finally got through that part.
don't go celebrating in the end zone just yet! i thought the second crux was similar but more difficult than the doubleissima crux. maybe i was just trying to make it feel like my expectation of 5.9 face climbing. luckily you can climb up and down to a good stance and slowly work it out.
props to macarthy, proud indeed!
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 14, 2009
Did the direct version by accident. Whoops. Otherwise it was awesome and I definitely recommend it. DW calls it 5.10a PG-R. Pull solid moves up and left from the roof, after clipping the fixed pin. But you don't get gear in for a little while. I think a fall would be big but still safe.
|By Jay Knower|
From: Plymouth, NH
Mar 15, 2010
I did MF Direct as my first pitch ever at the Gunks. There's nothing like trial by fire.
BTW, should the direct be mentioned in the route description? It seemed like a pretty popular variation.
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 19, 2010
If you do the 2nd pitch, a 2 rope rappel makes for the easiest descent. (There is a somewhat scary intermediate anchor on Birdie Party that might allow for 2 raps with a single rope, or with more effort than its worth you can get to the MF p1 anchor.)
2nd pitch is worth climbing too.
Feb 19, 2011
I would sacrifice my firstborn to be climbing this route on a crisp fall day right now!
|By Joe Lee|
From: tucson, az
May 13, 2012
Old school route in every sense. Reminded me of Margin of Profit. Better be solid . . .
From: Sheffield, UK
May 29, 2012
My leader accidentally did the variation that goes straight up the roof, then up to the anchors, without stepping out right. Following him, I did the canonical roof route, but then immediately had to traverse left on the edgey face with thin feet to collect his pro up the variation. This little variation turned out to be totaly awesome, but quite hard. I'm not familiar with what harder Gunks grades feel like, but I would put this at 10+/11-, with some really fun, tensiony moves from thin crimps and side-pulls. Give it a go, especially if you're not leading.
|By David Stowe|
May 30, 2012
MF Direct is definitely a fun and worthwhile climb and easily setup on TR after doing the regular route if you're not up to leading it, as it is a bit run out and pumpy to place gear. That said, definitely not 10+ or 11-, maybe 10b at most. Nowhere near as hard as Coex or Graveyard.
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 12, 2012
Amazing climb. Accidentally climbed the direct variation. I'd probably call it 10a or 10- with some PG-13. It's impressive that the crux flake on P2 remains intact. I really yarded on it...