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Mexican Crack

Original Post
Sir Camsalot · · thankgodchickenhead, Ut · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 201

The initial dihedral has my number. Does using the unprotected slab start around the corner still count?

Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,391

I believe so, since the slab start crux also goes at 10a, as I recall. The other 10a crux is the awesome hand crack up top.

Or, put a blue nut in 8ft off the deck, grab the horn, and then have fun with the rest of the climb. There's surprisingly little rope drag here. And the crux is more mental than anything else.

Alex Quitiquit · · Salt Lake City · Joined May 2011 · Points: 195

Bring a bouldering pad and place gear if you want and get to the horn.

Boissal . · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,541

Some people butt smear the right wall keeping their feel on the left wall and claim it makes it 5.2. I never managed to wrap my head around that one and still feel like the start is for real...

Sir Camsalot · · thankgodchickenhead, Ut · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 201

The slab start looked to be MAYBE 12 feet of 5.9. I feel dirty even asking....

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

The old blue Smoot guide rates Mexican Crack at 5.9 but that was when men were real men. The start is always hard for me.
Dallen

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

The slab start is harder than it looks.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,746
Boissal wrote:Some people butt smear the right wall keeping their feel on the left wall and claim it makes it 5.2. I never managed to wrap my head around that one and still feel like the start is for real...
Yep. Pretend its a chimney. Surprisingly moderate.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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