Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Mexican Breakfast Formation
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Mexican Breakfast Crack T 
Tarantula T 

Mexican Breakfast Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 150', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Doug Bridgers, Wayne Taylor: June 1974
Page Views: 1,839
Submitted By: George Perkins on Nov 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
Paul Horak

Description 

Mexican Breakfast Crack is an excellent, clean crack with a wild crux traverse under a big roof. The name is a spin-off from Yosemites's English Breakfast Crack. Certainly, trad climbers in both NM and California eat cracks like this for breakfast!

Pitch 1: Follow the clean left-facing corner under the right side of the big roof as it widens from big-hands to fist to offwidth. Sustained 5.8 to this point, but since there's so few OWs to practice on in the Sandias (or elsewhere in NM), the wider section "feels" harder. Look to layback and stem unless you need to prove you're tough. When you reach the roof, suck up your huevos and traverse out the right side with unusual memorable moves (5.9) providing the crux of the route, placing pro in the crack just underneath the roof. Some may consider this a sandbag at 5.9. Belay at a stance about 6' up after traversing out from this roof, as the rope drag starts to become muy heinous.

Pitch 2: Continue up wide crack 5.8 over a big block, then follow the same wide crack up and right over easier terrain to top of the formation to reach aspen trees for anchor.

Done with Breakfast and still have an appetite? Should be plenty of time to find Mountain Momma for lunch..

One rope would reach from ground to top, so you could do the whole route in a single pitch, but rope drag would give you indigestion unless you didn't place any pro protecting the crux.

Location 

This climb is the right side under the big roof on Mexican Breakfast Formation.

Protection 

2 ea. cams from #1-#4 camalot (1.5"-4"), plus a few smaller cams. A #5 camalot might fit, but isn't needed (#4's work ok).


Photos of Mexican Breakfast Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Dave Baltz on MBC, Turantula is crack climb on the...
Dave Baltz on MBC, Turantula is crack climb on the...
Dan B. on the classic first pitch.
Dan B. on the classic first pitch.

Comments on Mexican Breakfast Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mick S
Jun 25, 2008

Clark, nice photo of Paul Horak. What year was it taken? Looks like an all Hex ascent.
By bob bickford
Feb 18, 2009

Great route, I remember asking my friend John as I was running out the layback section, are you sure this is a 5.8?
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 29, 2011

Might be a bit harder than you expect.

;-)

CLASSIC route for sure.

AWESOME location.

Dig it.

Jeremy Aslaksen