Mettle Detector  5.11 R

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Alan Nelson New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Alan Nelson on Apr 1, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Maroon - Unknown.
Blue - The Perfect 10.
Light Gre...

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Description 

This is another case of "reading between the lines", tackling a thin crack and flake system in between the ancient trad standards "Chimney Route" and "Handcrack". The crux is the initial corner, protected by as much metal as you can stuff into the thin fissure in the back. The "S" rating comes from the mid-section, where the rock and pro aren't as good, even as the moves stepping left aren't as difficult. The upper flake is a straightforward hike to the anchor rings (shared with "Handcrack"). As a lead it will test your placement skills, as a toprope it is just plain fun.

Protection 

Tiny wires to medium cams to a two bolt anchor with rings (shared with "Handcrack").

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Just above the lower crux, shoulder jam, grunt sec...

The real crux is getting over the bulbous bulge ju...