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Honeymooner's Wall
Routes Sorted
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Honeymooners S 
Metro S 

Metro 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Scott Harris, Mike Head 1989
Page Views: 96
Submitted By: climnron on Oct 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Metro

Description 

The same start as Honeymooners, but at the third bolt head up the left line. A fun route with lots of good edges and rests.

Location 

East face of Punch and Judy Towers

Protection 

Bolts.


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 12, 2007

FA was done by Scott Harris and Mike Head in 1989. This is a really good climb.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 23, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

My understanding is that this route lacks anchors. If anchors were added would it be possible to lower with a 60m? 70m? Seems like it would be possibly if one would clipped into the rope. I have not climbed or even looked at this line but I am interested and lazy.
By climnron
Nov 26, 2015

There were anchors with chains back when I posted this route. I rapped in with a 60, but had to down climb the last 10 to 15 feet to the ground. It is just 4th class scrambling down a flake if I remember correctly. A 70 would definitely reach without a problem.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 14, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Four months after my question, I finally climbed this route. Metro features mostly big holds over solid rock. The only thing keeping this great line from being classic are the multiple ledges which detract from the flow.

This 105ft route consists of 14 bolts to two sets of fixed anchors. At least 4 alpine draws with shoulder length slings are recommended to reduce rope drag as the route wanders. An older, more easily accessible, recessed pair of anchor bolts is found at the top of the formation. A newer set of anchor chains is 5-10ft to the right of where the climb finishes. A 70m rope is ideal but a 60m rope can be used if one uses the midpoint anchors on Honeymooners when lowering. The first bolt is 20ft off the deck and exposed. The climbing to reach this bolt is very mild but the rock is slightly questionable. A optional piece of gear can be used to protect initial moves if desired. The route goes into the shade around 11:30am making for good temps much of the year.

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