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Climb large, positive holds through bulging terrain to a distinct crux just past the 5th bolt as you traverse left above the lip of a small roof. Once past the crux the angle subsides for a bit and a combination of stemming and liebacking past blocky corners and flakes through progressively steeper terrain leads to another crux between the last bolt and the anchors.
Great climbing on this route which feels a lot like climbing at Owens River Gorge in the lower portion and a little like Tangerine Dream up high. Originally done with 8 bolts, which made it a bit more "heady" to lead, but now with the addition of two more bolts it's very well protected and a must do route for the grade.
Located on the right side of the Metro Sector with Voyeurism (5.12a) to the right and Peepshow (5.10c) to the left.
10 bolts, open shuts
Dave just below the crux of Metro (5.11a), Riversi...
|By G Halsne|
Sep 28, 2013
A little confused on the movements of the first crux on this climb..There's a great 2 handed rail on the lip of the first roof... Directly above this there is nothing. It appears that one must go a few feet to the left and almost off route to get through this section... Thoughts?
Also, the air conditioner sized rock... Didn't see this, but sure saw the refrigerator sized rock about 20 below anchors... The one that has the killer vertical crack on top. Spooky climbing over that.
From: redlands, ca
Nov 26, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
someone needs to add three or four MORE bolts.
|By Euan Cameron|
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Jul 13, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
The route does have more bolts than stated in the printed guide. I thought it was fairly safe all the way.
From: La Jolla, CA
Dec 4, 2009
Ehh, there are MUCH better 11's at the crag. Redrum...Violator...Exfoliator...Double Whammy...Delirious..Epiphany
Mar 5, 2012
Good place to hide from the sun after its crested the cliff top. But there's an air-conditioner sized rock about 5 feet below the anchors that is REALLY close to coming off.. I know its the quarry, but this thing looks like its one bird-turd away from careening onto someone's domepiece. Also, there is a hold that appears to be undercling-worthy flake about 3 feet below the aforementioned death-rock that is about to pop off. You've been warned.