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Meteor 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: Fall-Spring. Summer in the Evenings
Page Views: 10,079
Submitted By: NateSkains on Oct 31, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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BETA PHOTO: Beneath Triton Tower

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Awesome route, First 3 bolts are the start of leonids, then wanders off to the right up toward the tower. Has two hard moves at the top of Pitch 1. Traverse right onto Triton Tower. Then climb an exposed arete up, then back on to the left face. Tops out on the top of the tower then make a traverse left on to the platform.

Location 

Just right of Leonids.

Protection 

Gear: 60 meter rope, 12 draws, 4 alpine draws, one number 4 DMM Dragon.


Photos of Meteor Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the climb
the climb
Rock Climbing Photo: traverse onto triton tower
BETA PHOTO: traverse onto triton tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Rappelling over the roof. Good day
Rappelling over the roof. Good day
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam starting the 1st pitch.
Adam starting the 1st pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: more climbers on the route
more climbers on the route
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the start of the 3rd pitch. Traverse right...
BETA PHOTO: This is the start of the 3rd pitch. Traverse right...
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost to the top of 3.
BETA PHOTO: Almost to the top of 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Meteor. In the red I believe is Josh Higgin...
Top of Meteor. In the red I believe is Josh Higgin...
Rock Climbing Photo: The cool last section of P4 at the top of the knif...
The cool last section of P4 at the top of the knif...
Rock Climbing Photo: climb
climb
Rock Climbing Photo: Route
BETA PHOTO: Route
Rock Climbing Photo: the end of the climb
the end of the climb
Rock Climbing Photo: Robert and I. Im at p1 anchor and hes on his way u...
Robert and I. Im at p1 anchor and hes on his way u...

Comments on Meteor Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 31, 2016
By Jason Kim
From: Encinitas, CA
Mar 31, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed this today in 2 long pitches using a 60 meter rope. From the anchor atop pitch one, I was not able to locate any obvious bolt line onto the tower. A 20 foot (5.6ish) nervy traverse over some loose blocks, grass, and smooth slab is required to gain the tower proper. I have attached a photo of the traverse, and you can clearly see the first bolt which is immediately right of the anchor (orange wire gate) and the very next bolt (rap station), which is no short distance away. A slip here would be nasty. I slung a small bush and placed a cam up high in some rotten rock; many shenanigans were involved to try and protect against a hideous pendulum onto the anchor.

The rest of the climb is easy face/arete with great holds and an awesome view.

By Jason Kim
From: Encinitas, CA
Mar 31, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I should add, both those pieces were then back cleaned to reduce rope drag, which would otherwise have been awful.
By ChaseLeoncini
From: San Diego, California
Sep 29, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

When youre about to start the traverse consider placing a 3" cam in the crack below the tree and then taking the stair-like rock formation up to the anchor. Its a little less protected (assuming the slinged rock holds) but this way its only about 5.4 climbing. To me slinging the crumbly rock looked sketchy. Id hate to hear that thing break when falling.
By ron amick
From: poway, ca
Feb 21, 2014

what does 5.8+ mean? That would be 5.9 in my book, its not like theres a huge gap between the 2 ratings
By Eoghan
Nov 30, 2014

Either I missed a belay station and linked two pitches, or the first pitch had more bolts then I expected. Didn't see any definite numbers on here so I went with 16 draws and still skipped a bolt or two. Bring loads of gear and prepare to run out a little. Still felt comfortable, and the bolts are relatively close anyway.

Loved the pitch on the tower. Loved the climb overall. Used a cam on the traverse like someone mentioned above.

Rapped with two ropes and got to ground in 2 rappels.

Gear: 60 meter rope, 12 draws, 4 alpine draws, one number 4 DMM Dragon.
By rockcarl
From: Durango, CO
Jan 5, 2015

Did this yesterday (1/3/15) taking advantage of the cool January weather. It was even chilly enough to make us wish we had brought a jacket for the belays! Linked the first two pitches just fine with a 60m rope, but did the last two separately to reduce rope drag. 4 raps back to the base.
By Kemper Brightman
Jan 24, 2015

Two pitches is definitely the way to go if you have a few alpine draws. The the hand traverse at the top of the tower is sure to make any leader smile. Classic feature climbing and great exposure make this one's a definite contender for best moderate on the main wall.
By David Hamburger
Feb 19, 2015

Do you need two ropes to rappel down ?
By tom donnelly
From: san diego
Apr 6, 2015

You can rappel with one 60m rope, stopping at each rap station.
By Miguel D
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 19, 2015

Climbed on June 17th. Took us two hours to get to the base of the cliffs. We had a late start and it was pretty hot so we took several breaks.

Climbed it in two pitches with a 60m no problem. We were actually planning on doing three but it just naturally seemed easier to do just two. The traverse wasn't too bad. We used a #2 C4 on that crack below the three and it seemed pretty solid. Closer to the top of both pitches we felt some drag but mostly just the rope weight itself. It's not too bad since the climbing is easy anyway

The raps are very straightforward as well
By Jul
May 31, 2016

Completed in 2 pitches (linked P2, 3, and 4 on a 60m with rope to spare). For climbers like us new to the area: TH is unmarked but obvious - look for the plank across the drainage. Also, the first traverse right is above, not at, the roof that constitutes the base of Triton Tower. Misty day made for lots of rope drag on P2-4, but the choice between clipping into the useless janchors on the original line, the new anchors out of the way, or climbing through the last dinosaur-back traverse was easy - the climbing is too fun to stop.

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