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Metamorphosis 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Laura Hahn, Tim Anderson
Page Views: 730
Submitted By: Tim Anderson on Oct 9, 2009
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Description 

Climb slightly overhanging face to a crux at the third bolt. A section of easier climbing follows. Then, continue up the short corner/crack section past the final bolt to the shuts. This climb has seen some serious accidents. Please consider the final moves and be competent at the suggested grade. It can be tricky and a ledge fall is the outcome if your not a solid 5.8 leader. Proceed with caution and have fun!


Location 

2nd bolted route from left end


Protection 

6 bolts, ring shuts



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By Isaac C
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13

An unpleasant, uninteresting, ill-conceived route with uniquely bad protection placement. The 5.6 finish has no redundancy for the abseil/belay (not to mention it is fixed to a tree), and the 5.8 extension adds nothing to the route while creating a dangerous, rope-obstructed lead fall on the move to the anchors. On a dry day when the adjacent route is available (Flying Dutchman 5.5), new climbers should work on that instead. If you're warming up for the hard stuff to the right, use Firefly (5.8). It's really a shame, because a much better and safer line of identical difficulty could have been envisioned here...