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Climb slightly overhanging face to a crux at the third bolt. A section of easier climbing follows. Then, continue up the short corner/crack section past the final bolt to the shuts. This climb has seen some serious accidents. Please consider the final moves and be competent at the suggested grade. It can be tricky and a ledge fall is the outcome if your not a solid 5.8 leader. Proceed with caution and have fun!
2nd bolted route from left end
6 bolts, ring shuts
By Isaac C
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
An unpleasant, uninteresting, ill-conceived route with uniquely bad protection placement. The 5.6 finish has no redundancy for the abseil/belay (not to mention it is fixed to a tree), and the 5.8 extension adds nothing to the route while creating a dangerous, rope-obstructed lead fall on the move to the anchors. On a dry day when the adjacent route is available (Flying Dutchman 5.5), new climbers should work on that instead. If you're warming up for the hard stuff to the right, use Firefly (5.8). It's really a shame, because a much better and safer line of identical difficulty could have been envisioned here...
By Brian Mohr
Nov 26, 2014
I always enjoy climbing the top half corner crack on this route. I wouldn't recommend the top half of the route to a new leader due to the ledge potential.
Pulling the 3rd bolt crux
By Pat Kohlbrenner
Aug 12, 2015
Fun climbing with some big reaches to big holds through the first three or four bolts. The final bolt and final move to the anchor has major ledge fall potential as mentioned by both Isaac and Brian. And it is really only that final move/crux that bumps the rating to 5.8.