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 ADVANCED
Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anchovy Caper, The S 
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 
Arugula, Arugula S 
Barbershop Duet T 
Big Easy, The S 
Boats from Cuba T 
Bonnie and Clyde S 
Bourbon Street S 
Brendan's Bitches T 
Cereal Killer S 
Climb and Punishment S 
Clusterphobia S 
Far From Feral S 
Fish Corner  S,TR 
Flying Squirrel S 
Green Mile S 
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 
Juicy Fingers T 
Maltese Falcon, The S 
Maria's Variation T 
Men In White Suits S 
Mentally Disturbed S 
Mesresha (open project) S 
Metamorphosis S 
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 
Rainbow S 
Scene of the Crime S 
Sesame Street S 
Slack T 
Toxic Gumbo S 
White Buttress, The T 

Metamorphosis 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Sport version bolted by Mark Sprague, but it uses terrain first climbed by Bradley White, Tom Bowker, Ted Hammond and others in the early 80s
Page Views: 5,898
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (173)
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Description 

The original route by this name took a wondering adventure line, starting on the left, across and up the cliff. This sport version is a bit more direct, covering fun steep terrain at a 5.8+ grade.

Pitch 1: Start right of Armed and Dangerous (5.10b). Look for a high bolt above aboute 25 feet of very easy, ledgy climbing. Reach up, clip the bolt and follow a crack up to a corner with good holds where you can stem and then move right up a ramp, then finally make moves straight up the steep headwall on good holds (Look around for them) Top out the headwall and continue up a short easy, very featured slab to a second bulge. Lower from the anchor. ( a 60m rope just makes it!)

Pitch 2: Don't bother. Since the first anchor got raised, it is now very short, undistinguished and likely very dirty. The anchor may have been removed also.

Edit- The lower anchor has been raised above the second bulge, so it is usually done as one long pitch, forgoing the lesser quality top. A 70m rope recommended, though you can just get down with a 60 from this anchor if careful.

Location 

Right of Armed and Dangerous.

Protection 

Pitch 1: 10 bolts to anchor.
Pitch 2: You can continue up another couple bolts to a high anchor if you wish as one pitch, but you will need to do 2 raps or lower with a 70m to get down..


Photos of Metamorphosis Slideshow Add Photo
First climb @ Rumney // Metamorphsis :: 5.8+
First climb @ Rumney // Metamorphsis :: 5.8+
Unknown climber on Metamorphosis
Unknown climber on Metamorphosis
Andrew on one of his first climbs
Andrew on one of his first climbs

Comments on Metamorphosis Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 16, 2012
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 21, 2008

After retroing this route, with permission of the FA'ist, Ted told me that the original line actually started out at Scene of the Climb, cut across Slack, joined into what is now bolted, then continued up and rt.

The second pitch of the sport version is something I added, but never got to clean much. It has some interesting climbing that is worth doing once, with an overlap that puts it at about the same grade, maybe a little easer, than the first. The 2 pitches can be combined as one for the lead, but the mid anchor will be needed for the lower off. I can't remember if a 70 m rope will just get you down all the way from the top.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 21, 2009

The bolted version actually starts to the right of Armed and Dangerous, with a high first bolt (abt 20 ft)in the short overhang that accesses the corner.

The first anchor has just been raised up to above the second bulge, so you will need a few more quickdraws. A 60 meter rope should get you down from there if you watch the end while lowering and the belayer doesn't stand out from the cliff. I might remove the few bolts above and the higher set of anchors as they don't add much to the quality of the climb and the hardware could be better used elsewhere.
By Chad Laflamme
From: Plymouth, NH
May 4, 2009

60 Meter rope just makes it to the ground. Watch out for a loose block near a "traverse" up top, lots of chalk on it, but not a very necessary hold.
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Apr 26, 2010

someone tick marked just about every hold on this route :( I wish i had had the time to go brush them all off. it was effing lame.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 9, 2010

So Bradley, did you guys go up from where the Sesame anchors are now? And did you start way over to the left, the way I understood it? Any memory of who lead that, and did they then continue up the white buttress or stop at the trees to the left?

My understanding is that Slick went up the beautiful left leaning corner above the first pitch anchors of Big Easy, then pulled up onto the slab using the right side of the huge flake that is now on the ground. The third pitch went up the seem of the upper buttress. Is that correct and was it Tim Gottwells who lead that? I have heard conflicting stories.

It would be nice to put anchors at the top of that corner, as it now pretty much dead ends without the flake. It's one of the classic trad pitches of Rumney
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 10, 2010

Thanks for the history, Bradley. I'll try to get an anchor on that corner this year if Ward doesn't do it before me. He had mentioned wanting to do it also.
What do you think about an anchor on Brendan's Bitches and maybe a few bolts? That always looked like it would be a nice longish moderate pitch for people to do with a bit of cleaning of the loose stuff and anchors. I think many people would enjoy it.
By tscupp
From: Cincinnati, OH
Jun 21, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did this for the first time and it is now my new favorite moderate line (first pitch only). Holds are good and the moves are fun and continuous up the ramp and above. The line never seems to end which was great. The only thing that detracts from this route was the rope drag which made clipping up high a pain so perhaps long slings down low would help this, but it could also be that the rope runs along that spiny schist for so long that the friction accumulates (The bolt job is very good btw - the rope runs in a fairly straight line despite the wandering beginning).

I think I needed 11 draws which includes the chains.
By S. Neoh
Jul 3, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Stellar, probably my fav easy route at Rumney now.
If my draw count is correct, it might be 12 or 13 incl the 2 for the anchors. But skipping a bolt or two is not big of a deal if one is solid at the grade of 5.8.
By Tim Wolsonovich
From: Boston
Sep 19, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun jug haul. Good warm up b4 you try A&D.
By Michael Buchanan
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Best warm-up i have ever been on, long and overhanging. Super good.
By Bill L.
Mar 29, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed it in one pitch, as I think most people do. Really great climbing at the grade. Depending on where you belay from, you will be cutting it close with a 60m rope, DO NOT LOWER YOUR CLIMBER OFF THE ROPE!!
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012

"Tom Bowker, Ted Hammond and I did the climb. The second pitch is just right of 'Clusterphobia' and then joins up with the finish of first pitch of 'Big Easy'. Big Easy's last pitch also was done then or shortly after that. Ted led the first pitch."

Comment by bradley white on June 9th, 2010 11:28 am
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012

"No.
Ted Hammond led the first pitch starting at the same place as 'Juicy Fingers' and did the same start crux as 'Scene of the Crime' (What a mess. I don't get it with all these new names to parts of one old climbs. It's cool, I'm chillin out, not getting it) and he then went on to do some more of the 'Crime'. Ted traversed onto what is now called 'Metamorphosis' and continued right until he I believe Ted did the first crux of 'Armed and Dangerous'. Ted traversed to end on the cliff belaying above the start to 'Slack' It was an intriguing climb. I led up from there moving onto the broken ramp bulge right of 'Clusterphobia' that I believe begins here and continues directly up the crack/fault face. From the bulge's top I was able to traverse right to climb directly up with one piton for protection (undesirable at the time face). At the tree ledge I believe we finished up 'Slick'.
The second (short) and third pitch of 'Big Easy' were climbed by me and ? that same summer but after the crux we went right of the pine tree and then up the same line (it could have been the same day) to finish 'Metamorphosis'.
The climb 'Metamorphosis' was basically abandoned by us. The pins on the first pitch I had paid for them. The amount of pins were too expensive for the distance covered, so I pulled them all out (maybe that was crime?). We were not impressed by the second and third pitches because of the lack of pro and too much dirtiness.
Your understanding of Slick is right on. The giant 'slick' rock, we used to lace it with gear. I was one of the newest kids on the block then. I believe the top pitch of 'Slick' was led by Chris Hassig but Tim may have done it first.
'Metamorphosis' first pitch was rated 5.9, it was an ascending traverse to 'Slack', solely protected by lost arrow and bugaboo pitons.
Anchors would be good where 'Slick's' corner ends. They'll be those who won't be able to get over the wall onto the ramp finish."

Comment by bradley white on June 10th, 2010 11:06 am
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012

"Go for it. I don't have the finances to retrobolt my old climbs. I enjoyed the route. It was originally the only way we had to getting to the upper ledge."

Comment by bradley white on June 11th, 2010 7:24 am
By Greg Pouliot
Jul 23, 2012

Going this week for the first time. When you all talk of a 60m rope just touching the ground, is that during the rappel off the top?
By S. Neoh
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

You should be able to lower to the ground or very close to it from the anchors with the rope going through all the draws. That said, have your belayer put a big knot at the his/her end of the rope, just in case.
Enjoy!
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Aug 29, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I finally climbed Mark Sprague's Metamorphosis's variation. This route has nothing to do with Ted, besides that he belayed me to lead the ramp. I thought the route was all (5.7-7+) except one move where the eye bolts become a hanger bolt anchor. The top moves appear hard until the commitment is made. Didn't bother with the top pitches and that section I've been there. I traversed over from 'Slick' tree ledge and quit at the anchor section to go up, not willing to go any further traversing on trad towards 'Slack'. Really nice bolting of the route Mark. The loosely cam block in the ramp is gone. I weigh about 200lbs and pulled hard on it because it was covered in chalk. I almost sent it down on two climber's below me. Put it back in place. They were getting set up for the 'Big Easy'. They moved and the rock was removed. It didn't change the grade for us not having it there.
More guide book nonsense Ted doing the first ascent, unless on some future date, he led Mark Sprague's variation.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 29, 2012

Thanks, Bradley, for the compliment on the bolting and removing the rock. Sorry if there was an error in attributing the FA. I was always told that it was you and Ted, with the impression of swapped leads. That is why I asked him about bolting it, since I knew him and you were not known to be around at the time. Ted may not have even remembered it well at the time, since he only told me the original line came from the left after the fact. (edit- or were you referring to the bolted line being nothing to do with Ted?).

As far as the guidebook goes, I wouldn't be too harsh on Ward. There would often be conflicting information, and to be honest, often what you write can be pretty confusing. Under the pressure of deadlines and getting something out, he had to go with the best he could figure Also, his guidebooks are catering mostly to those looking for fully established free climbs and not so much the exploratory adventure ones, so some of your mixed aid routes might not fit that category. As he received clarification, he made corrections in the next edition as far as I can see, a la Smoke Stack> Cold Shoulder. Sifting though the facts for routes done decades ago, often in heavily intoxicated states, in different styles, by rivalrous individuals can't always be easy.
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Oct 16, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Your'e welcome. The route's name has memorabilia. We all had fun making it.
Keeping facts straight and getting rid of the fiction, I have done my part to keep them separated for decades. The two seem to be attached at the hip. You are correct Mark, my great descriptions sometimes do people wrong because they are not such great descriptions. So I rewrite the descriptions again and again sometimes. I climb in some wide open out there places and descriptions are difficult to write.