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The Red Wall
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Metamorphosis 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: The Head Crew, 1994
Page Views: 1,063
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 22, 2001

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Description 

Scramble up the easy ledge system on the right or take one of the superb approach pitches.

Chase the corner up to back-to-back shallow roofs and pull out onto thin edgy face climbing. Finish on a cruxy bulge that is followed by a delicate run-out to the anchors.

Metamorphosis has not been given three stars in the "Devil" guide; however, I found it hard to knock off points for any reason. Excellent climbing, good stone, continuous movement at the 5.11+/5.12a level, and overall excellent pro are really worth the three stars. Highly recommended.

Location 

Metamorphosis begins in the middle of the main wall in a shallow corner system just before the down scramble to Man Chowder.

Protection 

A dozen draws and a 60 meter rope.


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By slim
Administrator
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

This is a really fun route and would make a good first route to do when you go up to the ledge for the first time. The rock is excellent and the protection is good also. I thought the opening 3 bolts or so was the crux, requiring careful footwork and accurate hand tossing. Upper part is really fun on nice grippy rock. The anchor is a bit to the right, which I thought would cause some problems cleaning, but it turned out ok.