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BETA PHOTO: Metalhead.
I am submitting the pitch that is in the newest guidebook for the area. However, one of the FA informed me that the route extends for two more pitches. I am only including the first pitch (which I have climbed), but I note my understanding of the grades of the next two pitches. If you are more informed than me, please drop me a comment.
Pitch one: Climb 25 feet of great, easy knobs to the first bolt. Next, friction left and a bit upwards for 10-12 feet and look up at the next 100+ feet of sustained smeding and friction (5.10+). Awesome. The bolt line will lead you towards a tree (try to minimize your use of this poor guy) and mantel to a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor (12 bolts; 140 feet).
The next two pitches are mixed bolts and gear. Pitch two leaves the belay heading up and left on a ramp system and is 5.11. The third pitch is 5.10.
Metalhead is on the middle-left side of the continuous, nice white slab that forms the right side of Razor Back. The route begins almost directly below the tree in the picture of the route I posted.
12-15 draws (including some longer for gear on the second and third pitch) plus a single rack from #2 Camalot equivalent and down if you do the second and third pitches.
Pitch one - bolted like the gym
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 23, 2013
I only did pitch 1 because that is all I knew was there. Probably 10b. After you get to the first bolt there are bolts every few feet - so if you need some practice on 5.10 slabs without the usual runnout risk this is a good route to work on slab technique with little to no risk.