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 ADVANCED
Desperado Wall
Select Route:
Black Slabbeth T,S 
Brain Damage T 
Breaking The Law T 
Granite Man T,S 
Hocus Focus T 
Holy Slabbeth, The T,S 
Into The Void T,S 
Jail Break T,S 
Metal Meltdown T,S 
Reckless Criminal T 
Return Of Grunge, The T 
Ride The Lightning T 
Slabbath Bloody Slabbath T 
Slabbra Cadabbra T,S 
Sticks & Stones T 
Thunderstruck T,S 

Metal Meltdown 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ed Williams,Shannon Millsapps, Tim Snyder
Season: late summer, fall, spring
Page Views: 386
Submitted By: gneiss pirate on Oct 11, 2008

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Description 

There is a story behind the name. Ask ole Ed. He will give it up.

Located at the end of "The Holy Slabbeth" ledge at a pine tree and up and right of "Brain Damage".
Move up and left from the tree placing small gear in a right facing slot. Make delicate and hard moves(crux) past 2 bolts to a great horizontal. Climb face protecting a hollow flake to a roof. Gear here. Pull the roof and climb past 3 bolts(5.11a) following the path of least resistance to a stance with small gear. Move right then up to a 2 bolt anchor.

2nd pitch. Ed Williams, Shannon Millsap

Move up and trending left to eventually join the 2nd pitch of Hocus Focus. Finish at the Hocus Focus anchor.

Natural gear.

Protection 

P1 5 bolts, double c3s or tcus to orange. Camalots to green. Possible small tri-cams.

P2 Same as above with camalots to yellow.


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By nbrown
From: western NC
Oct 20, 2008

Cool route with a good name. The climbing on the upper part is excellent. The 2nd bolt is still a spinner though...
By BruceBurgessNC
Apr 5, 2009

Nice long, interesting route. The first pitch has great variety and personally feels harder than Brain Damage. I would call it 11b anyday.