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Second Sella Tower
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Second Sella Tower – North West Ridge T 

Messner 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 820'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Reinhold Messner, Gunther Messner. 1968
Season: Summer
Page Views: 3,075
Submitted By: eDixon on May 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Typical Messner. Back and forth with limited pro....

Description 

This is a steep route up the north face of the tower. It is on good rock and follows a line up through the black water streaks.

Pitch 1 - Climb up a groove and then move right towards the black streaks.

Pitch 2 - Traverse right across the black streaks to the top of a small pillar.

Pitch 3 - Climb steep face up to below a roof.

Pitch 4 - Climb up through the roof and continue up a shallow corner.

Pitch 5 - Traverse directly right to a stance on a small ledge.

Pitch 6 - Climb up the groove, then move right under the roof and up to below another roof.

Pitch 7 - Climb around the roof and face climb up and left to the base of a ramp.

Pitch 8 - Climb the ramp, trending up and right to the base of a shallow corner.

Pitch 9 - Climb the shallow corner, then continue up a broken crack.

Pitch 10 - Climb up and right, mostly on face, to the large ledge.

Pitch 11 - Climb easy face to the top of the formation.

Descent - Follow a climbers trail east into the gully leading south between Second Sella Tower and Piz Ciavazes. Follow the gully to the base of the face and Sella Pass.

Location 

The route ascends the north face of the Second Sella Tower.

Protection 

There are a number of pins in place. Also take a selection of small to medium nuts and cam. Extra slings.


Photos of Messner Slideshow Add Photo
Jim Ghiselli following the fourth pitch of the Messner, photo James Crump, 1984
Jim Ghiselli following the fourth pitch of the Mes...
Jim Ghiselli leading the third pitch of the Messner, photo James Crump, 1984
Jim Ghiselli leading the third pitch of the Messne...
Jim Ghiselli following the second pitch of the Messner, photo James Crump, 1984
Jim Ghiselli following the second pitch of the Mes...
Route Topo.
BETA PHOTO: Route Topo.
Jim Ghiselli following the second pitch of the Messner, photo James Crump, 1984
Jim Ghiselli following the second pitch of the Mes...

Comments on Messner Add Comment
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By BenL
Apr 12, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

this is a mega classic on some of the best rock you'll ever find in the area. 4 stars!
By Jacques Lepesant
Feb 11, 2010

a classic route, very nice climbing,good fun, not many pegs, no bolts:) , and many threads. an excellent introduction to the area. as the route is fairly short, it can be done in about half a day. routefinding isnīt really a problem but not as obvious as itīs sometimes in other areas where youīre guided by pegs/bolts.
this is an historically quite important route as the messner brothers opened it climbing free, most other routes opened during the late 60īs were aidroutes or at least had some aid. so, donīt miss this one!
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 14, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

This is not an introductory route to the Dolomites so do not think of this as a warm up for climbs in the area. The route is serious – wonderful but not a warm up line. The rock is extremely solid for the Dolomites – but also takes rare gear placements due to that solidity. I highly recommend this line for the leader who is up to the level of difficulty far above any gear placements. However, if you have not climbed here in the past I suggest you do several other climbs at a more difficult grade in the area first to be more comfortable with the climbing style and gear placements. Be aware – it takes a long time for this wall to dry after a good rain storm.