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Mescalito 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a A3

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 26 pitches, 2800', Grade VI
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a A3 [details]
FA: Steve Sutton, Charlie Porter, Hugh Burton & Chris Nelson, 1973
Page Views: 10,188
Submitted By: Jeff G. on Jul 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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cleaning pitch 23

Description 

Hard to describe a 26 pitch route. You'll obviously want a topo but here is some basic info to get you started. Amazing route - one of the major highlights of my climbing career and one of the best experiences of my life. I highly recommend this line for a big El-Cap route without undue difficulty. You need to pay some dues on easier and smaller routes but you don't need to be an aid master or put your head on the chopping block for this one. I put a free rating of 9+ because you will do much better freeing a couple of the awkward chimney pitches instead of trying to aid them. The chimney on pitch 19 was especially awkward to aid, I had much better luck with freeing it. Lots of amazing pitches. No stand out crux but alot of spicy A/C2-3 pitches. The bismark is pretty exiting at the top, be ready to belly flop! Make sure you plan a bivy for the Bismark ledge, unbeleavable views of Halfdome and the Valley. Be efficient on cleaning lower outs and traverses, no big pedulums but some devious pitches to clean - especially the seagull and the molar traverse. Get good at highstepping it really helped me with the rivot ladders and getting past some spicier terrain.

Location 

EL CAPITAN. Right of the Nose, Left of POW

Protection 

All belays are bomber! We placed a total of 4 pins but didn't have any cam hooks. I think you could do this clean with a few cam hooks and a little trickery. Lots of aluminum dowels. Several fixed head pitches as well. Be prepared to replace heads or blown dowels/rivots. Some dowels have allready been replaced with quarter inch bolts. We had a double set of HB offsets that were incredibly usefull. We had one hybrid alien (green/yellow) and used it on every pitch. A full set of hybrids up to yellow/orange may be nice. We had a #6 friend for the top of the bismark and it worked out pretty well. Several hooking sections - we had a basic selection of 3-4 hooks. 3-4 sets of the smaller cams up to #1 camelot and doubles in the bigger sizes to #3.5 camelot. Single #6 friend. For pins we used a few short LA's and some baby angles. Bring a few bigger angles and a few sawed off angles as well. Also bring a selection of heads and keyhole hangars.


Photos of Mescalito Slideshow Add Photo
Soloist on Mescalito
Soloist on Mescalito
The Molar Traverse
The Molar Traverse
FA Mescalito 1973, Steve Sutton on top of the Bismark waiting (or sleeping) for a good picture of Charlie & Hugh climbing above.
FA Mescalito 1973, Steve Sutton on top of the Bism...
FA Mescalito 1973, Charlie Porter, Hugh Burton & Steve Sutton at the start.
FA Mescalito 1973, Charlie Porter, Hugh Burton & S...
FA Mescalito 1973, Charlie jumaring.
FA Mescalito 1973, Charlie jumaring.
Vicky lounging in the ledge January 2, 2014. This is after pitch 10 right before the Molar Traverse
Vicky lounging in the ledge January 2, 2014. This ...
Pitch 7
Pitch 7
FA Mescalito 1973, Charlie Porter leading the last pitch.
FA Mescalito 1973, Charlie Porter leading the last...
The Molar back in pin pounding days
The Molar back in pin pounding days
Climbing in the fog
Climbing in the fog
High on Mescalito
High on Mescalito
Perfect conditions half way up Mescalito
Perfect conditions half way up Mescalito
Doug McDonald and Ed Sampson hanging out.
Doug McDonald and Ed Sampson hanging out.
FA Mescalito 1973, passing Hugh above the Seagull.
FA Mescalito 1973, passing Hugh above the Seagull.
Doug McDonald cleaning the last few feet of the Bismark
Doug McDonald cleaning the last few feet of the Bi...
FA Mescalito 1973, Charlie Porter leading off the top of the Bismark.
FA Mescalito 1973, Charlie Porter leading off the ...

Comments on Mescalito Add Comment
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By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 9, 2007

We did it clean a few years ago. I attribute alot of this to having a double set of offset aliens. Even triples in the blue/green and green/yellow would not be excessive.

Overall a pretty sustained and fun route and one of the best its grade on the capitan. A fantastic route and fun experience for me.
By Marcus garcia
From: Durango, Co.
Mar 2, 2008

We did this clean in 2000 in five days. We took a set of hybrids, cam hook, files tricams, hooks,HB offsets and small pcord to hitch the blown cables. This is a great route.
Marcus
By Rusty Reno
Mar 2, 2008

Just for perspective: I did this route in 1980 with Dirk Havorka, and I'll bet I pounded more than 300 knifeblades and lost arrows. I also remember one of the most extreme moments I've had on El Cap. After nailing my way up the Bismark, and pounding in a bong sideways deep in the crack, I pulled up 20 feet of slack (which was itself a chore given the massive rope drag), and then I offwidthed to the belay. It was a moment of inner convulsion when I somehow managed to pull my way onto the top of the Bismark.
By Shawn Mitchell
From: Broomfield
Aug 12, 2009

June of '81. Had the luxury of watching a similar convulsive moment, secure from the belay, as Pat Brannon pulled up oodles of slack and then lie-backed to the ledge. Other party member was Rick Lynsky.
By Mark Herndon
Feb 6, 2010

1982. Took a massive pin rack and a zillion heads, but wasn't too hard. I can't fathom that it goes clean. There was near zero fixed gear on it then and it might have been done a couple of times that summer. It still looked mint.

I jugged the Bismark and the rope angled back deep into the crack to the anchors. So I just laybacked the thing. It has a good edge and if it was in C4, children could do it.
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 8, 2012

Thanks Chris N for the awesome FA photos!!! That kind of stuff is why I love mountain project. Climbing gold.
By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 21, 2012

FCA: Dave Dyess, A.C. Robertson, 1997
By Dwook
Feb 11, 2012

Did this Oct. 11-16th 2011 Clean with my friend Christian. Spectacular route.. For me the crux was pitch 15.. The middle of this route is nice and exposed. The upper third is relaxing with very aesthetic climbing. I used a wood block to a free move to gain the top of the Bismark!It was also a moment of inner convulsion for me! I took 1 20 foot fall and 2 30+ falls in the dark... It was my first El Cap route.