This is a surprisingly good route up the left side of the south face of the Mescalito Tower. Despite being on a south-facing wall, this route is not a great choice for very cold weather, as it gets a lot of shade from Juniper Peak in the winter.
p1. Easy cracks lead up to a belay in an alcove.
p2. Move left to cracks that lead back right above the big overhang.
p3. An easy chimney leads up and right. Exit left to a ledge with a bush.
p4. Climb up and left, over two ribs, to a right-leaning ramp.
p5. At the top of the ramp, balance up and go a long way left. Climb a varnished offwidth to a belay near a tree.
p6. Easy rock leads up and left to a large ledge.
p7. A few friction moves lead to a steep, right-facing corner.
p8. Climb the easier face to a belay beneath a long, right-leaning ramp.
p9. Follow the ramp to the top.
Walk upstream from the Cat in the Hat area for a few hundred yards, passing beneath a weirdly eroded wall with an ominous, dirty chimney. Continue to the area where the canyon branches and start below a cave-like overhang.
BETA PHOTO: The upper part of the South Face route.
|By Larry DeAngelo|
Oct 15, 2007
Most obvious descent is to go west to the notch, then south with lots of scrambling and maybe 1 single-rope rappel to regain the streambed a few hundred yards upstream from the start of the route. Of course, any of the Mescalito descent options could be used.