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Sherwood Forest
Routes Sorted
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Avenger, The S 
Boyz From The Hood S 
Fatman and Robin S 
Little John's Big Stick T 
Maid Marian S 
Men in Tights S 
Merry Men S 
Prince and The Pauper, The S 
Prince of Thieves S 
Robbin' the Hood S 
Sheriff's Tariff S 
Tony Bubb's Little Stick S 
Tuckered and Fried S 

Merry Men 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 1,760
Submitted By: Quinn Stevens on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (69)
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BETA PHOTO: Merry Men with approximate bolt locations.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the third from left route at the crag. After an initially powerful move, balance your way up the tricky seam to the top. Don't be afraid to traverse slightly left of the bolts when the climbing turns thin.

Protection 

Standard sport rack. 7 bolts to a two bolt anchor. The climb stops at the roof, and the bolts for the anchor are about a yard apart. Addendum: apparently these anchors have been fixed.


Photos of Merry Men Slideshow Add Photo
Really fun moves....
Really fun moves....
1. Merry Men (5.11a/b) <br />2. Robbin' the Hood (5.11c) <br />3. Prince of Thieves (5.12a/b)
BETA PHOTO: 1. Merry Men (5.11a/b) 2. Robbin' the Hood (5.11c)...
The crux. Tricky moves angle left using sidepulls and small feet. You can easily climb around the crux by stepping left from where Chuck is and then up. The route might then be 10a.
The crux. Tricky moves angle left using sidepulls ...
No doubt one of the better routes at Sherwood, crux is down low <br />(GoPro Sequence photo).
No doubt one of the better routes at Sherwood, cru...
There's a moderate slab move here and a finger jam move higher to get to the ledge. You may be ablee to see the long slings on the anchor--the bolts are far apart. The anchor really needs to be fixed. Perhaps it was set up this way to minimize the swings when toproping Merry Men, on thte left, and Robbin' the Hood, on the right.
There's a moderate slab move here and a finger jam...

Comments on Merry Men Add Comment
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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002

Terrific little route. Lots of sidepulls. 11b is generous. Well worth the effort.
By S. Kimball
Sep 2, 2002

Top left, cold-shut anchor is a spinner, with shaft and hole eroded, if folks clean off any more to the left, downgrade to 5.10, nevertheless still cool....
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 29, 2003

Although this as well as Robbin' The Hood are shown in the Rossiter Boulder Canyon guidebook (p. 47) as continuing past the 7th bolt, the rock above is covered in lichen. We ended up traversing right along the ledge and continuing to the top of Prince of Theives, which ends up being about 12 bolts (total) to a 2 bolt anchor and makes for a nice, slightly longer linkup.
By Michael Amato
Jul 13, 2005

Fun route, hard down low, but I couldn't quite find the 11b staying straight on the bolts.
By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Oct 4, 2007

Devious climbing if you don't escape left to the right-trending rail at the bottom. The anchors seem straight up dangerous; too far apart, left one spins, and awkward to clip. Besides, this thing should pull the roof; it looks like it would go sub 5.12. Maybe some new anchors (does anyone even care)?
By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I really liked this route. I climbed it clean just after doing another 11b, so it's probably more like 11a.
I escaped left and had a hard time cleaning the route. I couldn't tell if the route was supposed to continue through the lichen or stop at the 2 bolts that were 4 feet apart.
By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Nov 7, 2009

Just an update. Did this route today and someone has been generous enough to fix the anchor situation referred to above. There is a sold two bolt anchor w/ rings directly above the line of the climb.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Aug 21, 2010

Hmmm...Merry Men seems to be yet another one of those sport climbs that just can't decide what it wants to be.

11b?!? For Christ's sake. Sure, yah, I suppose if you restrict yourself severely to just certain holds, it'd clock in as an 11. But, like the vast majority of sport climbers out there, I consider anything within an arm's reach of the bolt line (like the nubs and the scrubs around to the left) to be decidedly in bounds (and NOT an "escape" as some would have it). Use those close-n-easy-to-reach, natural features on the left and Merry Men comes in at a merry 10d. Maybe even 10c. Challenging, but certainly NOT an 11.

The point? Don't. Inflate. Grades. If it's within reach, it's game. And if it's game, then WHY make a contrivance? Why make artificial a line that comes in just fine on its own, even if it's a bit easier than originally imagined?

Otherwise, let's just hack off a limb, wear Crisco for shoes, and call every thing out there a V37.