Merry Men 5.11b
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The crux. Tricky moves angle left using sidepulls ...
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Description This is the third from left route at the crag. After an initially powerful move, balance your way up the tricky seam to the top. Don't be afraid to traverse slightly left of the bolts when the climbing turns thin.
Protection Standard sport rack. 7 bolts to a two bolt anchor. The climb stops at the roof, and the bolts for the anchor are about a yard apart. Addendum: apparently these anchors have been fixed.
BETA PHOTO: 1. Merry Men (5.11a/b) 2. Robbin' the Hood (5.11c)...
| There's a moderate slab move here and a finger jam...
| Really fun moves....
| No doubt one of the better routes at Sherwood, cru...
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By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 5, 2002
| Terrific little route. Lots of sidepulls. 11b is generous. Well worth the effort. |
By S. Kimball Sep 2, 2002
| Top left, cold-shut anchor is a spinner, with shaft and hole eroded, if folks clean off any more to the left, downgrade to 5.10, nevertheless still cool.... |
By M.Morley Administrator From: Sacramento, CA Oct 29, 2003
| Although this as well as Robbin' The Hood are shown in the Rossiter Boulder Canyon guidebook (p. 47) as continuing past the 7th bolt, the rock above is covered in lichen. We ended up traversing right along the ledge and continuing to the top of Prince of Theives, which ends up being about 12 bolts (total) to a 2 bolt anchor and makes for a nice, slightly longer linkup. |
By Michael Amato Jul 13, 2005
| Fun route, hard down low, but I couldn't quite find the 11b staying straight on the bolts. |
By Aeon Aki Administrator Oct 4, 2007
| Devious climbing if you don't escape left to the right-trending rail at the bottom. The anchors seem straight up dangerous; too far apart, left one spins, and awkward to clip. Besides, this thing should pull the roof; it looks like it would go sub 5.12. Maybe some new anchors (does anyone even care)? |
By Jeremy From: Boulder, CO Jun 16, 2008 rating: 5.11a
| I really liked this route. I climbed it clean just after doing another 11b, so it's probably more like 11a. I escaped left and had a hard time cleaning the route. I couldn't tell if the route was supposed to continue through the lichen or stop at the 2 bolts that were 4 feet apart. |
By Brent Apgar Nov 7, 2009
| Just an update. Did this route today and someone has been generous enough to fix the anchor situation referred to above. There is a sold two bolt anchor w/ rings directly above the line of the climb. |
By Top Rope Hero From: Estes Park Aug 21, 2010
| Hmmm...Merry Men seems to be yet another one of those sport climbs that just can't decide what it wants to be. 11b?!? For Christ's sake. Sure, yah, I suppose if you restrict yourself severely to just certain holds, it'd clock in as an 11. But, like the vast majority of sport climbers out there, I consider anything within an arm's reach of the bolt line (like the nubs and the scrubs around to the left) to be decidedly in bounds (and NOT an "escape" as some would have it). Use those close-n-easy-to-reach, natural features on the left and Merry Men comes in at a merry 10d. Maybe even 10c. Challenging, but certainly NOT an 11. The point? Don't. Inflate. Grades. If it's within reach, it's game. And if it's game, then WHY make a contrivance? Why make artificial a line that comes in just fine on its own, even if it's a bit easier than originally imagined? Otherwise, let's just hack off a limb, wear Crisco for shoes, and call every thing out there a V37. |
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