Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The New River Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ali Natural  S 
Aqua Huck 
Aquabats 
Arete 
Beta Test S 
Bitch Strength 
Crucifixtion  S 
Dark Waters 
Dark Waters Stand 
Dark Waters Traverse 
Deep Sea Angler 
Dragonslayer S 
Enjoy Your Youth  S 
Execution  S 
Flash Flood 
Fluid Mechanic 
Formula 50 
Formula 500 
Fountain of Youth S 
Good Vibrations  S 
Green Herbs'n Sam 
High Waters 
Infinity 
Kinky Reggae S 
Kinky Reggae Direct Start  S 
Know Your Enemies  S 
Know Your Inclinations  S 
La Mega Positive  S 
Love Your Enemies  T,S 
Love Your Inclinations  T,S 
Master Beta S 
Merlin S 
Mobbin' Around 
No More Crucifixions  S 
No More Enemies  S 
No More Inclinations  S 
Positive Vibrations  S 
Public Crucifixion  S 
Public Enemy T,S 
Public Enemy Direct Start S 
Public Execution  S 
Public Inclinations  T,S 
Public Inclinations Direct Start  S 
Public Youth S 
Red Makes Me Angry! 
Sonic Vibrations  S 
Sonic Youth S 
Swamp Traverse 
Sweet Inclinations  S 
Sweet Inspirations S 
Than's Problem? 
Under Your Clings 
Unknown at New River S 
Unsorted Routes:

Merlin 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FA and FFA Alan Nelson & Richard Wright, '90s
Page Views: 1,292
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Apr 22, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Tony Cappa (c) Jesse Ryan, 2001.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is on a small rock along the approach to New River Wall, namely the short (~45 foot) rock just above the river after the Tyrolean just prior to New River Wall. Ascends the left side of the rock. The first few moves are very juggy and fun, then attacks the tricky crux in the crack before attaining good underclings at a small overlap. Pull above this to a large corner , clip and make a couple more juggy moves left to the chains. Fun but short (1.5 stars). Decent route to get the blood flowing a little before hopping on Sonic Youth.


Protection 

4 or 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Merlin Slideshow Add Photo
Beta photo.
BETA PHOTO: Beta photo.
Merlin.
Merlin.
Comments on Merlin Add Comment
Show which comments
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 19, 2006

FA and FFA is Alan Nelson and Richard Wright from some time in the '90s.

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 11, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Sorry but calling this route 11- is either ego-beta or cluelessness. 11+ might be a bit of an overstatement, although not much. High quality except for the flesh-eating thumbs-down jam at the crux.