Mere Wall  5.8

505 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Joe O'Laughlin and Bob Jensen, 1969 Submitted By:  George Bell on Jun 9, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Doug Redosh on P1 Mere Wall.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>> The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: Ridge Two Ridge Three Ridge Four Achaen Prnouncement Back Porch Argonaut Dreadnought North Ridge Bear Creek Spire Details. All East Face routes on the following formations are closed 1 April to 1 October (routes on the North, South & West Faces remain open): The Hand Mallory Flatironette Shark's Fin Finger Flatiron The following routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September: Sunnyside One East Face Left East Face Right Details. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

Fun route on the steep south face of the Finger Flatiron. Although the East Face was closed in the summer of 2001, this face was open. This route follows a left-slanting, incipient crack/ramp system. Due to the diagonal nature of the route, falls could be nasty even for the follower. There are some runouts, but not really too bad for a flatiron route. The 5.8 section is short, but good route finding skills are needed to stay on the easiest line. This route gets a lot of sun, and is often climbable even in winter.

Approach either by getting into the gully west of the Finger Flatiron (see Finger Flatiron description), or by climbing from Mallory Cave to the notch between the Shark's Fin and Finger Flatiron (5.0). Note, however, that this latter route was closed in the summer of 2001 to protect bats.

Begin just east of a large chockstone. Climb up to the diagonal seam/ramp, and follow it up and left, and belay after 110' where another crack angles up to the right.

Continue up the ramp and place some gear. The crux move is now an awkward traverse back to the left. Beyond this, consider carefully the easiest line, and seek out places for pro. The easiest way seems to be near the left hand edge of the ramp (but somewhat runout). Soon you will arrive on a large ledge below the summit.

You can belay here, and then do a final short pitch (or scramble unroped) back east through a hole to emerge on the summit. However, you can also continue pitch 2 to the summit, following the same crack all the way from the ground. This involves an awkward left leaning crack which goes through an overhang, 5.8-5.9 but well protected. If you opt for this alternative you can belay on the summit.

Rap 60' NW from some slings to the ground.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3"