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YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jay Smith circa 1988
Page Views: 960
Submitted By: chad umbel on Jan 21, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Chad Umbel at the crux of Mercedes Photo by Ian Po...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This is a mixed route unless you want to make a long runout in the beginning and at the finish of the climb; don't go up with just quickdraws! Start left on the face well below the first of the four protection bolts with easy moves. Then power up left past the roof into a shallow corner. Pull more exposed moves onto slab and climb straight up to a fixed anchor. Fun route with exciting climbing.


A few cams from 00' tcu to 1", a few small nut, a few quickdraws, and 2 over the shoulder slings.

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Rock Climbing Photo: About to get a high foot around the crux of Merced...
About to get a high foot around the crux of Merced...

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By Drew Peterson
Mar 6, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I used different beta, moving to the right of the undercling block... I found this route to be varied, exciting and really awesome.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A fine route with a bold feel, although its actually pretty well protected. Take a #2 and #3 camalot to protect the run to the first bolt.

If you're in the area, its well worth having a go- fairly safe, although you could take a pretty good fall if you fell trying to clip the second bolt.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 25, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

I didn't manage to find any pro. Soloing to the first bolt is def. R. Didn't see really much for gear options, but some may exist. My R rating is only for the beta I used. A tricam looked like it would have fit well in a pod near the bottom. I didn't have one.
By Michael Kimm
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 25, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

There are two different nut options low, both completely bomber placements. Large tricams, or either a #.75 or #2 Camalot can fit in the pocket section, so there are two very good pieces before the first bolt. No R rating here! If you're leading the grade, jump on it! The climb is excellent!

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