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Mercedes 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jay Smith circa 1988
Page Views: 692
Submitted By: chad umbel on Jan 21, 2005
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Chad Umbel at the crux of Mercedes
Photo by Ian Po...

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Description 

This is a mixed route unless you want to make a long runout in the beginning and at the finish of the climb; don't go up with just quickdraws! Start left on the face well below the first of the four protection bolts with easy moves. Then power up left past the roof into a shallow corner. Pull more exposed moves onto slab and climb straight up to a fixed anchor. Fun route with exciting climbing.


Protection 

A few cams from 00' tcu to 1", a few small nut, a few quickdraws, and 2 over the shoulder slings.



Photos of Mercedes Slideshow Add Photo
About to get a high foot around the crux of Mercedes. Jan 2012 <br /> <br />Photo: Andy Hansen
About to get a high foot around the crux of Merced...
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By Drew Peterson
Mar 6, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

I used different beta, moving to the right of the undercling block... I found this route to be varied, exciting and really awesome.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

A fine route with a bold feel, although its actually pretty well protected. Take a #2 and #3 camalot to protect the run to the first bolt.

If you're in the area, its well worth having a go- fairly safe, although you could take a pretty good fall if you fell trying to clip the second bolt.

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 25, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R

I didn't manage to find any pro. Soloing to the first bolt is def. R. Didn't see really much for gear options, but some may exist. My R rating is only for the beta I used. A tricam looked like it would have fit well in a pod near the bottom. I didn't have one.

By Michael Kimm
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 25, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

There are two different nut options low, both completely bomber placements. Large tricams, or either a #.75 or #2 Camalot can fit in the pocket section, so there are two very good pieces before the first bolt. No R rating here! If you're leading the grade, jump on it! The climb is excellent!