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This is a mixed route unless you want to make a long runout in the beginning and at the finish of the climb; don't go up with just quickdraws! Start left on the face well below the first of the four protection bolts with easy moves. Then power up left past the roof into a shallow corner. Pull more exposed moves onto slab and climb straight up to a fixed anchor. Fun route with exciting climbing.
A few cams from 00' tcu to 1", a few small nut, a few quickdraws, and 2 over the shoulder slings.
About to get a high foot around the crux of Merced...
|By Drew Peterson|
Mar 6, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
I used different beta, moving to the right of the undercling block... I found this route to be varied, exciting and really awesome.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
A fine route with a bold feel, although its actually pretty well protected. Take a #2 and #3 camalot to protect the run to the first bolt.
If you're in the area, its well worth having a go- fairly safe, although you could take a pretty good fall if you fell trying to clip the second bolt.