Mephistophiles 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, 2002 |
| Submitted By: | Ron Olsen on Jul 23, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: Mephistophiles. Climb discontinuous finger and ha...
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Description Approach: Go to the main tier of Solaris, traverse left past Contact, and head up a gully on the right. Spot a ledge on the right side of the gully with a line of bolts; this is Twilight Zone. Mephistophiles starts 10' left of Twilight Zone and goes up a left-angling crack system, with one bolt high on the route.
Climb the left-angling finger and hand crack to a stance by a bolt on the steep upper headwall. Make several difficult moves past the bolt, gaining a flared finger and hand crack. Continue up the flared crack to the top.
The rock on this route is still quite dirty, with lots of lichen to spice up the crux headwall.
We top-roped this route after doing Twilight Zone. The protection on the lower part of the route looks reasonable, but the protection in the flared crack at the top looks as if it could be difficult to place.
Protection Finger-to-hand-sized gear plus one bolt at the crux. 2-bolt anchor at the top.
Can top-rope after doing Twilight Zone by traversing over from the Twilight Zone anchor to the Mephistopheles anchor.
Christa Cline by the finger and hand crack below t...
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| Comments on Mephistophiles |
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2006
rating: 5.10c
| This climb is better than it looks from the ground and with some thought and effort can be completely festooned with gear, even above the bolt. |
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Aug 14, 2008
| Nice use of the word "festooned" Tony! |
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
May 25, 2012
| This thing is filthy and looks terrible but climbs really well. There is great gear except for the very bottom which is covered in lichen. The bolt is perfectly located right at the only hard move.... |
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