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Meow Mix 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type: Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,296
Submitted By: Chris Dawson on Oct 14, 2001
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Brian Story leading Meow Mix

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Description 

Meow Mix is just about the farthest route to the right when facing Cat Wall on the approach. Reach the wall, turn right, and just keep going. Eventually, the trail leads to some very easy down-scrambling, and then continues curving back left into an alcove. Meow Mix is the first good-looking line after this. A large right facing corner that flares to wide in places. First pitch is easy .10 or .9 or something for 60ft or so to a ledge with a bolt anchor with slings on it. Route continues up the corner via thin hands/laybacking for another 100 ft or so. Quality climbing. We ended up on it when we kept walking until we came upon a route that no one was on that was within our ability to lead. Unfortunately, I wasn't feeling up to Catastrophe that day.


Protection 

Just bring lots of everything. Mostly hand and thin hand size. 165 ft pitch can be done in two.



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By Rob Dillon
Mar 12, 2003

That 2-bolt anchor wasn't there; the climb was more like 180 feet, and I put in a lot of bigger stuff. Lots of work towards the top, what with the huge rack and 2 ropes.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 23, 2006

There's no 2 bolt anchor on the slopy ledge after 60ft. There wasn't even old bolt holes so I'm not sure where your information is coming from? Make sure you bring some wide pieces, couple #4 camalots and 3-4 #3.5 camalots. Also, it doesn't get thin until the last 40ft, but even that widens up near the anchors. The anchors at the very top are chain anchors.

By Brian Story
Mar 25, 2008

I think 10+ is fair for a grade. I didn't see the anchors at 60' either. Consider bringing an old #5 camalot for the middle offwidth pod. The anchors at 180' are chain anchors and visible from the ground. A good mix of climbing dominated by hands. enjoy

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Nov 17, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

There are no anchors at sixty feet. Someone pulled the bolts. The sleeves are still visible. What a great, long pitch though. So fun.

By Princess Mia
From: Vail
Apr 6, 2012

Such a classic long climb. One of my favorite creek climbs. It truly is 180 feet of continuous climbing. The pod was probably the crux for me. The rest just stellar. Climbing it as one long pitch with one rope works fine. Just bring a few long slings. If you don't want to go the distance with all the gear I reckon you could stop at the sloping ledge and build a bomber anchor. But hey, the real deal is all 180 feet all at one!!!

By alix morris
From: Berkeley, CA
Nov 26, 2012

My favorite route at the Creek thus far! So looooong and varied with all techniques; OW, jamming, liebacking, stemming. Get on it!