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Mentally Preparing for RX routes



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By Brent Butcher
Apr 5, 2012
me and brett

Shelton Hatfield wrote:
Brent, if you're thinking of League of Doom, there are tough moves high above your gear on that first pitch. If you're confident on 5.10 slab, it shouldn't be a problem, but if you aren't, I suggest you rap in for the money pitches. EDIT +1 for being versed in downclimbing

Sometimes I feel great on slab, sometimes I take unexpected falls. I've onsighted several slabby 5.10's yet have also fallen on 5.9 slab. I've taken pictures of this route but have not gotten much info on people who have climbed it due to the poison ivy infestation!


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By The Mother Ship
Apr 5, 2012

A few tips:

Climb to your high point and try to push through. If not, feel all holds to think about/put together a sequence. Then down climb to your last comfortable spot.

Remember the down climbing/reversing sequence. I worry more about reversing 15 difficult moves or so without tripping over my own feet, more than I worry about knowing whether or not I can eventually put the moves together to top out.

I've had good luck with 0's, 00's and 000's; placed close together and for shorter falls.

~~TMS~~


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By thomas ellis
From abq
Apr 5, 2012
Moira and I in Toulumne after a near death off route scramble fest

You're fucked.
Seriously though...slip.
Down climbing is extremely important but you must prepare for the moment beyond retreat. If you cannot get your noggin on lock down and push through, yikes. Listen to your inner fear and figure out when you can trust it.
Better to be cautious than dead.


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By thecornyman
From Oakland, CA
Apr 5, 2012
me on illusion dweller

Are there ways that your belay can help? I've seen in some of the grit films sometimes twin ropes can help and sometimes your belay can run the opposite direction to keep you from a ground fall. Also a few pads may help. When I personally have done R climbs I tell myself over and over "no room for those thoughts, keep moving". But look at the bright side, soloing is way easier since you don't have to bother with gear.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Apr 5, 2012
El Chorro

You should have confidence in your ability to deal with the unknown, and confidence in your ability to climb at certain grades. If you aren't used to climbing high above gear on routes that are easy to moderate for you, then you're probably not ready to do so on hard routes. On the other hand, if you're happy soloing and climbing high above gear, maybe it is time to see how hard you want to climb w/ little to no protection.


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By Trad Nanny
Apr 5, 2012

Mentally bolt it.


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By Mic Fairchild
From Boulder
Apr 5, 2012
kickin' on Broadway

Sometimes it's necessary to just 'throw the switch' and go for it on a route. But I've downclimbed and backed off plenty of stuff if it didn't feel right. I have obsessed about a route enough that I got up in the morning and was properly psyched for Route XXX that particular day. I'd recommend soloing a few easy routes to get your brain in shape, be prepared with a downclimbing option (I wrote a tech tip for Climbing a few years ago that's on their site), and be sure to have a belayer you can trust. A great belayer can really inspire me when I know that they're gonna catch me no matter how sketchy the situation. Bonus if you've got a belayer who's already done the route.


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By fossana
From Eldorado Springs, CO
Apr 5, 2012
Zion chossy peak traversing

+1 for the ability to downclimb, which has saved my ass (with and without a rope) more than once


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By Stiles
From the mountains
Apr 6, 2012
offensive <br />

Nobody has yet mentioned The Rock Warriors Way by Arno Ilgner. That book is all about psychologic strength. I read it and then soloed Petit no problem. Gettin laid all the time now too


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By kiff
Apr 6, 2012

nothin but practice, gotta start with windmills before you slay giants.


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By Greg D
From Here
Apr 6, 2012
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />

If you have to ask, you probably shouldn't do it. But, if you think you are ready, this is the best advice here from someone that has really done it. All the rest are toproping, rehearsing wanna be's. Sorry wankers. No offense.

adam brink wrote:
When Steve Levin talks about climbing runout routes you had better listen. He knows his stuff.


Edit because of the misguided responses below: Mic is badass. But, I do not follow others climber's accomplishments. Climbers that do R/X in eldo are badass. Climbers that do R/X without tr rehearsal or super badass. Climbers that tr a route, then lead it are in a lower class, in my book. Flame now if you like. Just my opinion.


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By fossana
From Eldorado Springs, CO
Apr 6, 2012
Zion chossy peak traversing

Greg D wrote:
If you have to ask, you probably shouldn't do it. But, if you think you are ready, this is the best advice here from someone that has really done it. All the rest are toproping, rehearsing wanna be's. Sorry wankers. No offense.


Umm...I wouldn't exactly call Mic a toproping, rehearsing wanna be[sic].


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By Umph!
Apr 6, 2012

Greg D wrote:
If you have to ask, you probably shouldn't do it. But, if you think you are ready, this is the best advice here from someone that has really done it. All the rest are toproping, rehearsing wanna be's. Sorry wankers. No offense.



Umm. . . Mic Fairchild? Really? I guess our definitions of wanna-be's are considerably different.

Brent, if ya gotta ask, you aren't prepared enough. Seriously.

EDIT: Ha! You beat me to it Fossana


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By Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Apr 6, 2012
Me and Spearhead

adam brink wrote:
When Steve Levin talks about climbing runout routes you had better listen. He knows his stuff.


No doubt.
Not that I make a practice of doing R/X routes but Steve's advice resonates with me. There are those days when everything is right and it just happens.
I just wish I had more of those days, more frequently.


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By Greg D
From Here
Apr 6, 2012
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />

fossana wrote:
Umm...I wouldn't exactly call Mic a toproping, rehearsing wanna be[sic].


I didn't and I wouldn't. All due respect to Mic. Did I mention him without knowing?

I did not mean in any way that if you are not Steve Levin, you are a wanker. I was just giving props to Steve and others that have done similar style routes. Geez. Get your panties out of the bunch.


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By Shane Zentner
From Colorado
Apr 6, 2012
laissez le bon rouleau de temps!

All things considered, you'll figure it out when you get to the bottom of the climb. It will either feel right or it won't. Don't force it and don't push it too far. However, as Mic said, sometimes you have to 'throw the switch' and go for it. You'll know it when it happens.

I hate giving this advice because it's a personal decision and yours alone. It's also a dangerous question that will invoke a wide range of comments.

Good luck


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Apr 6, 2012
El Chorro

Stiles wrote:
Nobody has yet mentioned The Rock Warriors Way by Arno Ilgner. That book is all about psychologic strength. I read it and then soloed Petit no problem. Gettin laid all the time now too


MOno did... way back at the beginning of the thread.

But yea, OP, it's a good read.


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By fat cow
From Salinas, CA
Apr 6, 2012
perfect seam

Knight of a Woeful Figure wrote:
nothin but practice, gotta start with windmills before you slay giants.


be don quixote


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By Hank the Tank
From Golden, CO
Apr 6, 2012
those sweet glue days.

Greg D wrote:
Climbers that do R/X in eldo are badass. Climbers that do R/X without tr rehearsal or super badass. Climbers that tr a route, then lead it are in a lower class, in my book. Flame now if you like. Just my opinion.


Yay, Greg D thinks I'm badass...

I'm with most everything John L is saying.


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By Mic Fairchild
From Boulder
Apr 6, 2012
kickin' on Broadway

Belayer story: The first time I led Jules Verne, I had Candelaria holding the rope (like money in the bank). I climbed up the runout, got shaky, then climbed back to the rest. He yelled up "you were already past the crux!" As I recall, when Caylor wanted to lead JV, he called me to belay. I was glad to pay it forward.


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By Hank the Tank
From Golden, CO
Apr 6, 2012
those sweet glue days.

Mic Fairchild wrote:
Belayer story:As I recall, when Caylor wanted to lead JV, he called me to belay.


I admit it. Was having you belay me considered a form of aid?!


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By reboot
From Westminster, CO
Apr 6, 2012

Hank Caylor wrote:
I admit it. Was having you belay me considered a form of aid?!

Is that how you guys do it? I got up JV with maybe 2 pitches of gear climbing in the last 12 months. My secret weapon was a buddy wanting to photograph the route. That surely added 100 sack points.


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By doligo
Apr 6, 2012
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style

devkrev wrote:
um...I might be wrong, but it was my assumption that the gear rating of a climb is the gear rating for the section that which the difficulty rating of the climb is rated.


It depends on the area. In New England, usually gear ratings go with the hardest moves, but I noticed some areas around West would have R/X ratings for say 5.9 moves on a 5.10 climb. The guides usually explain that or MP does.

I agree with what JohnL said - RPs, Ballnutz and small aliens give me some extra courage. A lot of times "R/X" mean that gear is "creative".


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By JLP
From The Internet
Apr 6, 2012

I have nothing to add to this wankfest, yet I feel like I need to be a part of it.


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By Hank the Tank
From Golden, CO
Apr 6, 2012
those sweet glue days.

shuminW wrote:
My secret weapon was a buddy wanting to photograph the route. That surely added 100 sack points.


That's the true secret revealed right there. Lucky belayers was all old-school. Stick a camera/video crew next to the route, boom.


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