By Brent Butcher Apr 5, 2012
| Shelton Hatfield wrote: Brent, if you're thinking of League of Doom, there are tough moves high above your gear on that first pitch. If you're confident on 5.10 slab, it shouldn't be a problem, but if you aren't, I suggest you rap in for the money pitches. EDIT +1 for being versed in downclimbing Sometimes I feel great on slab, sometimes I take unexpected falls. I've onsighted several slabby 5.10's yet have also fallen on 5.9 slab. I've taken pictures of this route but have not gotten much info on people who have climbed it due to the poison ivy infestation! |  FLAG |
By The Mother Ship Apr 5, 2012
| A few tips: Climb to your high point and try to push through. If not, feel all holds to think about/put together a sequence. Then down climb to your last comfortable spot. Remember the down climbing/reversing sequence. I worry more about reversing 15 difficult moves or so without tripping over my own feet, more than I worry about knowing whether or not I can eventually put the moves together to top out. I've had good luck with 0's, 00's and 000's; placed close together and for shorter falls. ~~TMS~~ |  FLAG |
By thomas ellis From abq Apr 5, 2012
| You're fucked. Seriously though...slip. Down climbing is extremely important but you must prepare for the moment beyond retreat. If you cannot get your noggin on lock down and push through, yikes. Listen to your inner fear and figure out when you can trust it. Better to be cautious than dead. |  FLAG |
By thecornyman From Oakland, CA Apr 5, 2012
| Are there ways that your belay can help? I've seen in some of the grit films sometimes twin ropes can help and sometimes your belay can run the opposite direction to keep you from a ground fall. Also a few pads may help. When I personally have done R climbs I tell myself over and over "no room for those thoughts, keep moving". But look at the bright side, soloing is way easier since you don't have to bother with gear. |  FLAG |
By Ryan Williams Administrator From London (sort of) Apr 5, 2012
| You should have confidence in your ability to deal with the unknown, and confidence in your ability to climb at certain grades. If you aren't used to climbing high above gear on routes that are easy to moderate for you, then you're probably not ready to do so on hard routes. On the other hand, if you're happy soloing and climbing high above gear, maybe it is time to see how hard you want to climb w/ little to no protection. |  FLAG |
By Mic Fairchild From Boulder Apr 5, 2012
| Sometimes it's necessary to just 'throw the switch' and go for it on a route. But I've downclimbed and backed off plenty of stuff if it didn't feel right. I have obsessed about a route enough that I got up in the morning and was properly psyched for Route XXX that particular day. I'd recommend soloing a few easy routes to get your brain in shape, be prepared with a downclimbing option (I wrote a tech tip for Climbing a few years ago that's on their site), and be sure to have a belayer you can trust. A great belayer can really inspire me when I know that they're gonna catch me no matter how sketchy the situation. Bonus if you've got a belayer who's already done the route. |  FLAG |
By fossana From Eldorado Springs, CO Apr 5, 2012
| +1 for the ability to downclimb, which has saved my ass (with and without a rope) more than once |  FLAG |
By Stiles From the mountains Apr 6, 2012
| Nobody has yet mentioned The Rock Warriors Way by Arno Ilgner. That book is all about psychologic strength. I read it and then soloed Petit no problem. Gettin laid all the time now too |  FLAG |
By kiff Apr 6, 2012
| nothin but practice, gotta start with windmills before you slay giants. |  FLAG |
By Greg D From Here Apr 6, 2012
| If you have to ask, you probably shouldn't do it. But, if you think you are ready, this is the best advice here from someone that has really done it. All the rest are toproping, rehearsing wanna be's. Sorry wankers. No offense.
adam brink wrote: When Steve Levin talks about climbing runout routes you had better listen. He knows his stuff. Edit because of the misguided responses below: Mic is badass. But, I do not follow others climber's accomplishments. Climbers that do R/X in eldo are badass. Climbers that do R/X without tr rehearsal or super badass. Climbers that tr a route, then lead it are in a lower class, in my book. Flame now if you like. Just my opinion. |  FLAG |
By fossana From Eldorado Springs, CO Apr 6, 2012
| Greg D wrote: If you have to ask, you probably shouldn't do it. But, if you think you are ready, this is the best advice here from someone that has really done it. All the rest are toproping, rehearsing wanna be's. Sorry wankers. No offense. Umm...I wouldn't exactly call Mic a toproping, rehearsing wanna be[sic]. |  FLAG |
By Umph! Apr 6, 2012
| Greg D wrote: If you have to ask, you probably shouldn't do it. But, if you think you are ready, this is the best advice here from someone that has really done it. All the rest are toproping, rehearsing wanna be's. Sorry wankers. No offense. Umm. . . Mic Fairchild? Really? I guess our definitions of wanna-be's are considerably different. Brent, if ya gotta ask, you aren't prepared enough. Seriously. EDIT: Ha! You beat me to it Fossana |  FLAG |
By Brent Apgar From Out of the Loop Apr 6, 2012
| adam brink wrote: When Steve Levin talks about climbing runout routes you had better listen. He knows his stuff. No doubt. Not that I make a practice of doing R/X routes but Steve's advice resonates with me. There are those days when everything is right and it just happens. I just wish I had more of those days, more frequently. |  FLAG |
By Greg D From Here Apr 6, 2012
| fossana wrote: Umm...I wouldn't exactly call Mic a toproping, rehearsing wanna be[sic]. I didn't and I wouldn't. All due respect to Mic. Did I mention him without knowing? I did not mean in any way that if you are not Steve Levin, you are a wanker. I was just giving props to Steve and others that have done similar style routes. Geez. Get your panties out of the bunch. |  FLAG |
By Shane Zentner From Colorado Apr 6, 2012
| All things considered, you'll figure it out when you get to the bottom of the climb. It will either feel right or it won't. Don't force it and don't push it too far. However, as Mic said, sometimes you have to 'throw the switch' and go for it. You'll know it when it happens. I hate giving this advice because it's a personal decision and yours alone. It's also a dangerous question that will invoke a wide range of comments. Good luck |  FLAG |
By Ryan Williams Administrator From London (sort of) Apr 6, 2012
| Stiles wrote: Nobody has yet mentioned The Rock Warriors Way by Arno Ilgner. That book is all about psychologic strength. I read it and then soloed Petit no problem. Gettin laid all the time now too MOno did... way back at the beginning of the thread. But yea, OP, it's a good read. |  FLAG |
By fat cow From Salinas, CA Apr 6, 2012
| Knight of a Woeful Figure wrote: nothin but practice, gotta start with windmills before you slay giants. be don quixote |  FLAG |
By Hank the Tank From Golden, CO Apr 6, 2012
| Greg D wrote: Climbers that do R/X in eldo are badass. Climbers that do R/X without tr rehearsal or super badass. Climbers that tr a route, then lead it are in a lower class, in my book. Flame now if you like. Just my opinion. Yay, Greg D thinks I'm badass... I'm with most everything John L is saying. |  FLAG |
By Mic Fairchild From Boulder Apr 6, 2012
| Belayer story: The first time I led Jules Verne, I had Candelaria holding the rope (like money in the bank). I climbed up the runout, got shaky, then climbed back to the rest. He yelled up "you were already past the crux!" As I recall, when Caylor wanted to lead JV, he called me to belay. I was glad to pay it forward. |  FLAG |
By Hank the Tank From Golden, CO Apr 6, 2012
| Mic Fairchild wrote: Belayer story:As I recall, when Caylor wanted to lead JV, he called me to belay. I admit it. Was having you belay me considered a form of aid?! |  FLAG |
By reboot From Westminster, CO Apr 6, 2012
| Hank Caylor wrote: I admit it. Was having you belay me considered a form of aid?! Is that how you guys do it? I got up JV with maybe 2 pitches of gear climbing in the last 12 months. My secret weapon was a buddy wanting to photograph the route. That surely added 100 sack points. |  FLAG |
By doligo Apr 6, 2012
| devkrev wrote: um...I might be wrong, but it was my assumption that the gear rating of a climb is the gear rating for the section that which the difficulty rating of the climb is rated. It depends on the area. In New England, usually gear ratings go with the hardest moves, but I noticed some areas around West would have R/X ratings for say 5.9 moves on a 5.10 climb. The guides usually explain that or MP does. I agree with what JohnL said - RPs, Ballnutz and small aliens give me some extra courage. A lot of times "R/X" mean that gear is "creative". |  FLAG |
By JLP From The Internet Apr 6, 2012
| I have nothing to add to this wankfest, yet I feel like I need to be a part of it. |  FLAG |
By Hank the Tank From Golden, CO Apr 6, 2012
| shuminW wrote: My secret weapon was a buddy wanting to photograph the route. That surely added 100 sack points. That's the true secret revealed right there. Lucky belayers was all old-school. Stick a camera/video crew next to the route, boom. |  FLAG |
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