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 ADVANCED
Mental Block
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barndoor Layback 
Cornerlock 
Face Full Of Greens AKA Fist Full Of Greens 
Mental Block Traverse 
Mental Standard 
Mental X 
Pinch Overhang 
Tiger Face 

Mental X 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,080
Submitted By: Jeb Gorham on Apr 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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The crux heel hook.

Description 

Link a SDS into Barndoor Layback (V3) from the right southwest corner on Mental Block. Start on a right hand sidepull and a left hand crimp, bust out to a left gaston, heel hand match on the right, match hands, move over and up to the left hand pinch (of pinch overhang), settle, reach for the layback and pop the mental mantle finish.

Protection 

Several crash pads to cover the uneven landing area.


Photos of Mental X Slideshow Add Photo
Reaching for the pinch.
Reaching for the pinch.
Into the layback.
Into the layback.

Comments on Mental X Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 16, 2004

Jeb, your description and photos are awesome. Pictures speak a thousand words.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 25, 2004

Does every inch of rock need to be a new route? John Gill already did that, one night when he was drunk and and bored without crashpads. This bouldering thing is getting out of hand. I am sure if you search it out hard enough there are pleanty of new inches to climb. Oh, sorry, I mean boulder in between many classic Horsetooth problems....
By ac
Jun 25, 2004

Anonymous Coward, you obviously don't climb at Horsetooth very much. There are almost as many variations and squeeze jobs at Rotary Park as there are at Morrison. OK, I may be exaggerating slightly, but not much.
By Yoda
Jun 27, 2004

Use the force, Brent.
By Andy Johnson
Jul 13, 2004

Jeb, I'm sorry to rain on your parade, but I have for sure seen several people do that problem several years ago. Mental Block has been worked over pretty hard since its discovery, and just about every variation under V13 including "your problem" has been done. There are plenty of unreported problems at Rotary.
By Andy Johnson
Jul 19, 2004

So, I showed this to a guy whom you all probably know very well for his climbing and bouldering influence, but I will not reveal his name because I don't know if he would want me to. Anyway, he said that people have been climbing that problem for years, and it even has a name which I cannot remember. So sorry, Jeb, but just because there is not chalk on it does not make it a new problem.
By ac
Jul 20, 2004

Andy, lighten up a little on Jeb. Maybe he was a little presumptous in thinking this was a new route but that's a common occurrence in bouldering. It looks a fun problem, albeit a bit contrived. If others have climbed it, we'd love to know the history. If you can remember the name to the problem, it would be a good addition to this site.
By goldielocks
Dec 2, 2005

I did this problem at least two years ago, it was probably done in the seventies. It's only V3, maybe a V4.