2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Mental Rock has four very nice lines, all cracks. There seems to be very little traffic here, perhaps because the routes are not bolted and/or they are all very difficult. They're all very sustained and fairly technical, and harder than they look.
The routes are all north facing so it's a nice place to find shade on hot days. I suspect most people top rope the routes, and the top of the face is easily accessed via 4th class scrambling from the west side of the north face.
A. Love or Confusion?, 11, 1p, 40', gear. B. Obsessive-Compulsive?, 12, 1p, 40', gear. C. Manic-Depressive, 12-, 1p, 40', gear. D. unknown, 12-? TR, 1p, 40', gear or TR. E. Sleeper, 12, 1p, 40', gear.
The rock is located on the south side of the creek and just past the Brick Wall. We were able to cross the creek easily in early September, but during high water one can cross the creek via the remnants of an old bridge just to the east of the rock. Either way, move along the creek until just under the north face and follow a faint trail up to the base.
This excellent line follows a thin finger crack up to and over the roof. Once arriving at the roof, things get much more involved with powerful underclings and lunges to sloper holds, and finally a lunge to a good hand jam. For even more fun, try the thin crack just right of the regular start which leads to the same roof crux, but involves more 5.11 and 12- moves before getting to the roof. This variation is very sustained and better than the regular start. Whichever way you start, there is ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO