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Pitch 1 - Tony Tennessee's first lead. mid 1980's.
What a fun route! So much fun in fact that there was an entire institute established in Yucca Valley where all they do is sit around all day and talk about how great a route it is (and if you believe that...). But seriously, Mental Physics one of those routes you can climb again and again.
P1: Climb 120' of sweet jamming to 3-bolt anchor (2 of which are good, one is old). Either rap from here with 1 60-m rope and a bit of downclimbing, or continue up P2: face climb (5.4?) past one bolt to top. Rap Dazed and Confused.
Curious about the name? It comes from Mentalphysics, which is a spiritual retreat center located on the western edge of Joshua Tree, right off Highway 62.
Standard rack to 3", 60m (or better yet, 70m) rope.
BETA PHOTO: Mental Physics
Still a great climb even between rain showers!
Pitch one of Mental Physics. The rope on the left...
BETA PHOTO: Mental Physics
Really fun route. Big holds. A little long to TR...
Leading Mental Physics
Free solo. The second pitch played some Mental phy...
Time lapse of the first pitch of Mental Physics
view from the approach... with a guy @ the anchor
Cory approaches the first anchor on Mental Physics
Cory Smith on Mental Physics
Mental Physics (5.7+)
Looking up at the start of Mental Physics
Panorama from the top of P1 on Mental Physics
|Comments on Mental Physics
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 5, 2003
A beautiful route in a beautiful setting. Passive pro works very well in this crack. The second pitch is completely different from the first crack pitch but should not be missed especially considering that the summit of Lenticular Dome is a great viewpoint, the walkoff descent is fine.
|By C Miller|
Apr 7, 2003
Both this climb and Dazed And Confused can be done in a single pitch with a 60 meter rope.
|By Woody Stark|
May 27, 2003
I hesitate to say this; however, since a few of my climbing friends agree with me, I feel this route, as good as it is, is no more than a solid six. One could screw it up above the crack and make a seven out of it--or more; but it's five six at the most. It's outstanding for someone learning to lead.
Jan 19, 2004
For the approach, it seemed a little easier if you walk past the route (from the wash next to Lenticular Dome) until you're about alongside the roof of the route called Unknown (to the left of Mental Physics). If you cut in right from there and start scrambling up, it seems a little easier.
If you plan to rap this route, it is recommended that the second climber checks no one is starting to climb Dazed and Confused (to the left of Mental Physics).
I would not exactly downrate this route below 5.7 but I felt like more of the 5.7 moves came on pitch 2.
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Jun 22, 2004
Very nice route. Yes, people do it barefoot, but who cares? The wander to the bolt on the second pitch is cool. One can examine DandC while leading this. Highly recommended.
Jun 22, 2004
Splendiferous! Another must-do in my book. Worth the hike in, nice sun exposure, overall I was a happy camper. When I think of fun days, I think of that time with Mindy getting lost in San Fran and the day I climbed this route.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Oct 4, 2004
Very fun climb that has that "way back there" feel to the location. Besides a couple of hikers, we didn't see anyone in this neck of the woods.
The crack on p1 is very fun and as stated earlier pros up with nuts and hexes very well. The second pitch is a little runout right off the belay, but eases up in difficulty quickly.
|By C Miller|
Feb 22, 2005
A very good route that's well worth the hike. It's highly recommended to lead this in a single pitch and then rap Dazed And Confused (5.9) to the left or (if that's occupied) do an easy scramble down slabs to the climber's left. Don't miss the great views of San Gorgonio from the summit! Four stars out of five.
|By Hal Tompkins|
Dec 2, 2006
The second pitch seemed to me to be solid 5.7 for the first 10-12 feet past the two-bolt anchors, then it eased off to 5.4 for the next 15 feet to the only (bomber) protection bolt. From there to the top is also no more than 5.4.
|By Ryan Kelly|
Sep 30, 2008
The first pitch is probably the best 5.6 in the park.
|By Joe M|
From: Rapid City, SD
Jan 11, 2009
Such a great route! Definitely a must do. Very well protected. Most of the moves are probably 5.6 (with only a couple 5.7 thrown in), but given how continuous and sustained it is, I think it deserves a solid 5.7.
|By Chris Winter|
From: Portland, OR
Nov 8, 2009
Excellent route and highly recommended. Run the two pitches together and belay from the top off 2 #1 cams.
|By Chris D|
From: the couch
Dec 20, 2009
Led this route last Sunday, my second or third 5.7 lead at Josh. Very interesting climbing with lots of options. Probably more a reflection of my (in)ability to spot gear placements than anything else, but the "60 favorite" guidebook says it eats gear; It might eat cams, but I found that placing passive pro was harder than some climbs I've done at this rating. Spent too long trying to place a tri-cam only to watch it pop out ten feet below me and ten feet above my last piece. There are tons of places to place gear if you're placing cams, but many of the spots where passive stuff will go is right where you want to put in a foot or toe jam.
Luckily, this is a climb with a lot of options. It's exposed, but the rock is so featured around the crack that it's pretty secure. Lots of fun! The walk in and the scramble to the base are a delight. A beautiful spot. Didn't see a soul from the parking lot to the climb and back on a beautiful day.
|By Justin Tomlinson|
From: Monrovia, CA
Dec 28, 2010
I used a lot of small to medium size nuts, especially in the lower half. Nuts worked great. Great climb.
From: Chandler, AZ
Dec 29, 2010
guide book said 20 minute approach and it took me 45 with alittle pushing. Well worth the hike and I thought 5.7 was a fair grade for the park. some of the higher finger jams were fingertip laybacks for me and what a great climb.
From: Atascadero, CA
Feb 11, 2011
I'd agree with Hal regarding the second pitch. Fun, but the first 10 feet off the belay are unprotected 5.7/8 slab. Then it eases up, although still unprotected til the bolt which is another 15 feet up.
Nov 10, 2011
Linked both pitches and belayed from the 2 bolt anchor atop D&C with a 60m.
"P1" was straightforward, almost entirely nuts. Didn't use anything bigger than a #1 BD C4. For "P2", from the 2 bolt anchor 100' up the character of the climb changes entirely and I had a hard time remembering if the single bolt visible 40' up was on route, as it trends left. Felt a bit runout getting to it.
Phenomenal climbing, exposure, and location. Well worth the trek.
|By Zachary Wilson|
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 25, 2011
Such a quality route. Amazing crack just swallows gear.
|By Rob Selter|
From: running springs Ca
Apr 16, 2012
dont't bother! there are less pepole, less patacci, less assholes! who needs that.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Apr 26, 2012
"dont't bother! there are less pepole, less patacci, less assholes! who needs that." - Rob Selter
What a non sequitor!
|By j moore|
From: Santa Maria
Nov 13, 2012
i thought it was really light for a 5.7. if you can lead 5.8 i dont think there should be any problem with this. i found overhanging bypass to be more difficult. i think i remember crux being about 3/4 way up. maybe a little more.