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Lenticular Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Booglesby T 
Dazed and Confused T 
Hand Wobler Delight T 
Mental Physics T 
Unconscious Obscenity S 

Mental Physics 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 19,279
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jul 3, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (223)
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Time lapse of the first pitch of Mental Physics

Description 

What a fun route! So much fun in fact that there was an entire institute established in Yucca Valley where all they do is sit around all day and talk about how great a route it is (and if you believe that...). But seriously, Mental Physics one of those routes you can climb again and again.

P1: Climb 120' of sweet jamming to 3-bolt anchor (2 of which are good, one is old). Either rap from here with 1 60-m rope and a bit of downclimbing, or continue up P2: face climb (5.4?) past one bolt to top. Rap Dazed and Confused.

Curious about the name? It comes from Mentalphysics, which is a spiritual retreat center located on the western edge of Joshua Tree, right off Highway 62.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3", 60m (or better yet, 70m) rope.


Photos of Mental Physics Slideshow Add Photo
Free solo. The second pitch played some Mental phy...
Free solo. The second pitch played some Mental phy...
Looking up at the start of Mental Physics
Looking up at the start of Mental Physics
Still a great climb even between rain showers!
Still a great climb even between rain showers!
view from the approach... with a guy @ the anchor
view from the approach... with a guy @ the anchor
Pitch one of Mental Physics.  The rope on the left...
Pitch one of Mental Physics. The rope on the left...
Mental Physics
BETA PHOTO: Mental Physics
BETA PHOTO
Cory Smith on Mental Physics
Cory Smith on Mental Physics
Mental Physics
BETA PHOTO: Mental Physics
beautiful route
beautiful route
Really fun route.  Big holds.  A little long to TR...
Really fun route. Big holds. A little long to TR...
starting up
starting up
Leading Mental Physics
Leading Mental Physics
Cory approaches the first anchor on Mental Physics
Cory approaches the first anchor on Mental Physics
Leading Mental Physics
Leading Mental Physics
Mental Physics (5.7+)
Mental Physics (5.7+)
Pitch 1 - Tony Tennessee's first lead. mid 1980's.
Pitch 1 - Tony Tennessee's first lead. mid 1980's.
Panorama from the top of P1 on Mental Physics
Panorama from the top of P1 on Mental Physics
The inspiration......
The inspiration......
When there are no crowds...
When there are no crowds...

Comments on Mental Physics Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 22, 2014
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 5, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A beautiful route in a beautiful setting. Passive pro works very well in this crack. The second pitch is completely different from the first crack pitch but should not be missed especially considering that the summit of Lenticular Dome is a great viewpoint, the walkoff descent is fine.
By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 7, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Both this climb and Dazed And Confused can be done in a single pitch with a 60 meter rope.
By Woody Stark
May 27, 2003

I hesitate to say this; however, since a few of my climbing friends agree with me, I feel this route, as good as it is, is no more than a solid six. One could screw it up above the crack and make a seven out of it--or more; but it's five six at the most. It's outstanding for someone learning to lead.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jun 22, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Very nice route. Yes, people do it barefoot, but who cares? The wander to the bolt on the second pitch is cool. One can examine DandC while leading this. Highly recommended.
By TrevorB
Jun 22, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Splendiferous! Another must-do in my book. Worth the hike in, nice sun exposure, overall I was a happy camper. When I think of fun days, I think of that time with Mindy getting lost in San Fran and the day I climbed this route.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 4, 2004

Very fun climb that has that "way back there" feel to the location. Besides a couple of hikers, we didn't see anyone in this neck of the woods.

The crack on p1 is very fun and as stated earlier pros up with nuts and hexes very well. The second pitch is a little runout right off the belay, but eases up in difficulty quickly.

Will
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 22, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A very good route that's well worth the hike. It's highly recommended to lead this in a single pitch and then rap Dazed And Confused (5.9) to the left or (if that's occupied) do an easy scramble down slabs to the climber's left. Don't miss the great views of San Gorgonio from the summit! Four stars out of five.
By Hal Tompkins
Dec 2, 2006

The second pitch seemed to me to be solid 5.7 for the first 10-12 feet past the two-bolt anchors, then it eased off to 5.4 for the next 15 feet to the only (bomber) protection bolt. From there to the top is also no more than 5.4.
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Jan 11, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Such a great route! Definitely a must do. Very well protected. Most of the moves are probably 5.6 (with only a couple 5.7 thrown in), but given how continuous and sustained it is, I think it deserves a solid 5.7.
By Chris Winter
From: Portland, OR
Nov 8, 2009

Excellent route and highly recommended. Run the two pitches together and belay from the top off 2 #1 cams.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Dec 20, 2009

Led this route last Sunday, my second or third 5.7 lead at Josh. Very interesting climbing with lots of options. Probably more a reflection of my (in)ability to spot gear placements than anything else, but the "60 favorite" guidebook says it eats gear; It might eat cams, but I found that placing passive pro was harder than some climbs I've done at this rating. Spent too long trying to place a tri-cam only to watch it pop out ten feet below me and ten feet above my last piece. There are tons of places to place gear if you're placing cams, but many of the spots where passive stuff will go is right where you want to put in a foot or toe jam.

Luckily, this is a climb with a lot of options. It's exposed, but the rock is so featured around the crack that it's pretty secure. Lots of fun! The walk in and the scramble to the base are a delight. A beautiful spot. Didn't see a soul from the parking lot to the climb and back on a beautiful day.
By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
Dec 28, 2010

I used a lot of small to medium size nuts, especially in the lower half. Nuts worked great. Great climb.
By ScooterV
From: Chandler, AZ
Dec 29, 2010

guide book said 20 minute approach and it took me 45 with alittle pushing. Well worth the hike and I thought 5.7 was a fair grade for the park. some of the higher finger jams were fingertip laybacks for me and what a great climb.
By FrankPS
From: Atascadero, CA
Feb 11, 2011

I'd agree with Hal regarding the second pitch. Fun, but the first 10 feet off the belay are unprotected 5.7/8 slab. Then it eases up, although still unprotected til the bolt which is another 15 feet up.
By Canon
Nov 10, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Linked both pitches and belayed from the 2 bolt anchor atop D&C with a 60m.

"P1" was straightforward, almost entirely nuts. Didn't use anything bigger than a #1 BD C4. For "P2", from the 2 bolt anchor 100' up the character of the climb changes entirely and I had a hard time remembering if the single bolt visible 40' up was on route, as it trends left. Felt a bit runout getting to it.

Phenomenal climbing, exposure, and location. Well worth the trek.
By Zachary Wilson
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 25, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Such a quality route. Amazing crack just swallows gear.
By j moore
From: Santa Maria
Nov 13, 2012

i thought it was really light for a 5.7. if you can lead 5.8 i dont think there should be any problem with this. i found overhanging bypass to be more difficult. i think i remember crux being about 3/4 way up. maybe a little more.
By David S.
May 25, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

My favorite climb and lead in Joshua Tree. Well worth the hike (the hike in and of itself is fantastic)- seeing San Gorgonio through one of the Wonderland canyons from the top of P1 is something that should profoundly impact your psyche. Amazing gear (cams and nuts alike!); solid, sustained 5.6-7 moves the whole way up. The length and purity are icing on the cake. (I hesitate to shower so much praise to avoid bringing any crowds to this beautiful spot)

Only did the first pitch. With a 70 m rope you can just barely do TR from the belay boulders but can rap out to one of the big dishes to the left of the crack.
By Kai Larson
From: Sandy, Utah
Nov 3, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

The 2nd pitch is slabby and very run out.

From the 2 bolt anchors at the top of the first pitch, it's probably 30+ feet to the first (only?) bolt. If you fall before you clip that bolt, you could take a 60+ foot factor 2 fall onto the belay, bouncing down the slab.

The first pitch is easily protected with a standard rack. I used medium and large cams (up to #3 Camalot) for the most part. If I'd had a #4, I would have placed it too.
By Muscrat
6 days ago

Very fun line, can be crowded. If there is no one waiting, this is a very fun line to speed climb...either on TR or leading. 80 seconds was our best for the first pitch!
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
3 hours ago

Worth going back to lead the slab and get to the 'summit'. Doing it in one pitch eliminates the chance of falling on, or factor 2'ing, on your belayer.