Mental Block Traverse V9
| 1,119 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Boulder, 10 feet |
| Consensus: | V9 [details] |
| FA: | S. Mammen |
| Submitted By: | Andy Mauk on Mar 24, 2004 |
| |
Add Photo Printer View
Southeast Reservoir was closed and is no.
|
Description Start over the the left of the boulder under the roof. Make your way right, across corner lock and standard and then finish on pinch overhang.
Protection A few pads are always good. Make sure you have pads at the end of the traverse because you end on Pinch Overhang.
| Comments on Mental Block Traverse |
|
By Adam Holmes Mar 29, 2004
| I think John Sherman did the FA but then the loose block on the north face has since fallen off. That makes the starting moves of the traverse a bit harder. I'm not entirely sure if it's been sent since (it's probably been done). It's a damn fine problem. |
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn Mar 31, 2004
| F.A. Steve [Mammen]..... "Back in the day"; when Steve showed it to me; he started from the "Pinch" and traversed left to finish under the N overhang. The crux was getting past the "Standard" route and dropping down onto the incredibly sharp prickly rail that runs across the start of the "Fingerlock". |
By Anonymous Coward Mar 31, 2004
| I enjoy working this from the other direction (into the pinch). Turning the corner from corner lock to standard is a real hoot. The final moves falling into the pinch hold and basically doing the pinch overhang after churning through all the previous moves makes this thing friggin' hard! Still a project I enjoy working. MF |
By Anonymous Coward Apr 15, 2004
| I know that Will L. did the FA of the L-R traverse after the block broke off. The L->R way is harder [corrected]. |
By ac Apr 15, 2004
| How is the R-L way harder? Is the north face section more difficult? Seems like starting on the Pinch and moving left would be easier because it eliminates the crux of doing Pinch Overhang at the end of the traverse. I've tried the R-L version but only went as far as Standard before topping out. That version is awesome. |
|