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Mental Block Party 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chris Hahn - 4/96
Page Views: 522
Submitted By: susan peplow on Apr 4, 2007
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Lauren onsighting Mental Block Party

Description 

Just left of the crack (Betty Cracker 5.9) this route starts easily enough but soon after the moves and holds get thin.

Vertical route with crimpy holds on that super grippy dark grey rock. It's nice.


Location 

While walking in from the main trail you'll come across a large low angle boulder (sinker 5.5)just above the wash bottom. Directly in front of the boulder is a courtyard that gets early morning shade year round. Third route from the right on the south facing wall.


Protection 

6 shuts plus anchor



Photos of Mental Block Party Slideshow Add Photo
fun climb. photo by Lindsey Western
fun climb. photo by Lindsey Western
mental block party. photo by Lindsey Western
mental block party. photo by Lindsey Western
Comments on Mental Block Party Add Comment
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By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 2, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

The guidebook calls this route "sustained" but I found it to be anything but. The crux was short, more based upon solid technique than strength, and was followed by a nearly no-hands rest and a bunch of really positive holds to the top. Didn't really seem 11.

That said, this is a good 10/10+ with some fun moves and great holds.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 9, 2008

Andrew, I agree the crux is short but it's still probably a series of .11 moves to get past it. Small pockets and somewhat technical on vertical rock. It only takes one move of .11 to make the grade. The upper section eases but the crux still packs a punch.

By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 10, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Maybe this route just fit my style, I dunno. To me it felt about the same as Genesis which seems like a good benchmark for 10+ at Jacks. Not that it matters too much, this is a fun route with good moves on solid rock and that's what counts.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Mar 30, 2009

If you really want to tick a 5.11A, this is the route to do! Unlike the poster above, I found the nature of this route to be the opposite of Genesis. Genesis is pumpy, gently overhanging climbing while Mental Block Party offers almost pure vertical climbing with plenty of rests; it really shouldn't pump you out at all. I found the 5.9 one climb over to the right to be pumpier.

By Mark Mueller
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

This route is nothing like Genesis, the only similarity would be the bolts. Mental Block Party has fun movement going left and right and left on vertical rock with rests after every move. I don't think there is a crux on this climb.