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Menses 

5.10d

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
FA: Brian Mullin
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (98)
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Dec 23, 2005

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Description 

This nice clean namesake route is a couple lines right of No Passion for Fashion and just left of The Big Chill. Follows a dished out seam up the face then over an overlap and face climbing above to the anchors. The holds are slopey and the climbing continuous, better climbed when in the shade (morning).


Protection 

7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Menses Slideshow Add Photo

BETA PHOTO
About 3/4 of the way up the route

About 3/4 of the way up the route

At the crux (or so i thought...) of Menses... <br /> <br />Photo by Russ Hermanson

At the crux (or so i thought...) of Menses...

Pho...


Falling off right before the anchors.... <br /> <br />Photo by Russ Hermanson

Falling off right before the anchors....

Photo by...


Nivek loves crack!

Nivek loves crack!

Menses.

Menses.

menstrating?

menstrating?

At the first bolt.

At the first bolt.

High on Menses.

High on Menses.

Just about to pull the crux.

Just about to pull the crux.

A hot December day.

A hot December day.


Comments on Menses Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
May 13, 2004

Most fun I had that day. The finger crack start, which runs about 20-25 ft., is fun. Move up and right where this crack ends, to engage the bulge from the side. From a good, positive rail smack in the middle of the bulge, a long reach left gets another rail and then a big block, where creative body positioning will earn you a no-hands rest. From here to the top is balancey and sustained.

By Rich Kelly
Sep 21, 2005

This is a great route requiring good technique and strength. The bulge is the crux and can be done different ways. As described in the above comment, the best holds lead you up right but then you are forced to go straight left. I found moving left to be the crux, requiring fancy foot work and hand cross overs to get your body weight under the good holds which sets you up for moving left up to the rest block. On TR I tried going straight up the bulge and while it was technically harder then how I lead it, it better positions you for the moves up left and is a lot less moves.

By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 14, 2009
rating: 5.10d

Wow, slopers at Shelf. Sustained hard 10 climbing. It is getting quite chalked up and greasy though.

By Crag Dweller
From: Denver, CO
Mar 7, 2010

A great route with fun movement through a variety of holds from jams to crimps to sidepulls to slopers.

W/the little ledges at the base of the route and the spacing between the 1st and 2nd bold, there is the potential to hit the deck if you came off clipping the 2nd. The crack, which runs from finger to near hand-size, would take easily take a cam in between the two bolts.

By Niccole
From: Denver, CO
Oct 21, 2010
rating: 5.10d

I think this route would have been great years ago. It is so polished it was like handling glass in some places. And on the small crimpers I need to get to larger holds this was a very hard route for its grade.

By Top Rope Hero
From: Estes Park
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.10d

Excuse me? Save your stars for climbs that aren't actually shit-piles of festering muck. Never was there a more Vaseline-greased, glass-slippery, slope-infected nightmare of a 10. NEVER MIND that every conceivable horizontal feature is chalked up so heavily you get dizzy trying to figure out which are the 10% that you can actually use.

I think Niccole has it spot on. In its day, Mensus must have been quite tasty. Today? Fifty thousand sends later? It's about as appetizing as its namesake. Avoid as such.

By Bruno Hache
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 26, 2010
rating: 5.10d

Great route many years ago.
Now that it is so polished, I rate it from 4 stars to 2 stars.
Best done when cold due to the polished factor.

By Austin Cooner
Mar 17, 2013

Not a classic. Not a warmup. Warm up with the Big Chill and save your energy for No Passion or Sundogs instead.