|707 page views|
Stick clip the high first bolt from the top of the boulder. Although this route only has 4 bolts, they are well placed and right where you want them. Start by climbing up the face between the boulder and the wall linking very positive holds all the way to the 2nd bolt. From here, head up and right a bit as the wall gets steeper and then back a bit left to clip the 3rd bolt. From here, you can pick the grade of the route. If you head out left along the really nice holds and traverse back right to the 4th bolt, it's 5.11d. If you head straight up, aiming for a side pull out right and avoiding the large holds way out left, it's 5.12a. From the 4th bolt, it's nothing but jugs to the anchor.
Some folks start the route from on top of the boulder...but this skips a couple nice moves.
This is the first bolted line on the gray wall perpendicular to the Brain Wall as you pass Brain Tweezers, 5.10b. It's just to the right of the dirty corner, Bearpaw Crack, 5.8.
4 bolts, shuts.
|By skinny legs and all|
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Apr 21, 2013
This route feels runout for a sport climb, but do not let that scare you off.
|By Chris Whisenhunt|
From: Fayetteville, WV
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
This thing seemed way harder compared to disturbance.