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 ADVANCED
Potrero John
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beginnings T 
Cleaning Lady S 
Color Blind (aka Rubber Man) S 
Menage a Trois S 
Miccis S 
Migrating Coconuts (aka Zyzzxx) S 
Should I Go (aka El Potrero) S 
Should I Stay S 

Menage a Trois 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Henry Barber and Yvon Chouinard (lead traditionally, without bolts!)
Page Views: 850
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Reese Martin leading Menage a Trois at Potrero Joh...

Description 

Once again, a very fun route on good rock in an idyllic setting.

There is one insecure and poorly protected move before the second bolt. Fall from here and you will not fare well. The Edwards book says to bring small stoppers, but it is not clear where protection can be had at this point.

Protection 

4 bolts (you'll long for another) to anchors. The Edwards guidebook says to bring along small pro, but this additional pro is difficult to place well. Tri-cams are helpful.

Update: As of October 2006, someone has replaced all four lead bolts with 3/8" Rawl-style expansion bolts.



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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 11, 2006

According to tests done by Duane Raleigh (published in Climbing Magazine, Oct. 1992), the type of bolt used on "Menage a Trois" has functionally no strength in 2000psi rock (rock which is TWICE as hard as Poterro John's sandstone). For more info, see Anchors Away
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 19, 2009

FA: Henry Barber and Yvon Chouinard, 1976. Variation: start left of climb, connect at second bolt.

Take care getting to the second bolt if leading!
By ryan mattock
Mar 2, 2009

FA: Henry Barber and Yvon Chouinard, 1976. I sure do respect those climbing icons. that's why I would never add bolts to their route, yet unless it was their own bolt being added.

I lead that thing in 95'.
By Mike Stearns
Nov 21, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I was able to place 3-4 bomber cams in addition to clipping the bolts.

My rack: Met master cam purp - red
BD C3 purp and green

Not sure which I placed exactly.