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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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Menace To Sobriety 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Oct. 9, 1995--Charles Pechousek, Bob Cartwright
Page Views: 2,114
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Doug Kern edging up the technical face

  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
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  • Description 

    Poke-O is known for many aspects of climbing, but one in particular stands out for many climbers: Technical (read: Off-vertical) face climbing.

    This route adds a more direct start to Cirrhosis, AND a full number grade of difficulty harder.

    7 bolts protect the anchors and the end to a very thin and breath-taking route up a sheer, black face.

    Start by mantling onto a shelf, then continue up the wall passing the crux at about 2/3 height. There are several spots along the climb where the climber will be making somewhat tenuous moves above bolts. So come armed with your vertical dancing shoes, and be sure to keep your wits together for this tremendous affair of the steep.

    Location 

    Locate the Thunderhead roof at the far right end of the cliff. Menace To Sobriety is the blank, black face to right with a line of bolts up it.

    Protection 

    7 bolts and a two bolt anchor.


    Comments on Menace To Sobriety Add Comment
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    By Derek Doucet
    Jun 10, 2010
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Linking this w/ P2 of Cirrhosis produces one of the finest 5.10 pitches at Poko, with varied, sustained and intricate climbing throughout. Highly recommended!
    By Jim Lawyer
    Administrator
    Jun 10, 2010

    Derek, there's even a photo of you on this route in the guidebook!
    By Nick Weinberg
    From: Essex, NY
    Oct 23, 2013

    Did a hold or two break on this? Re-climbed it the other day and it felt quite a bit harder (and less enjoyable) than it did a few years back. And the person I was climbing with who had just onsighted a hard 5.11 had to hang on it....
    By rocknice2
    From: Montreal, Quebec
    Oct 2, 2014
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    I don't know what I was thinking calling this a 10c. maybe I was a better face technician back then. Anyway certainly felt like solid 10+ almost 11-.
    The bolts are starting to show their age but are still safe IMHO. I will be changing them out for glueins. What do you guys think about how its bolted? Does it need more bolts? And it's possible to extend it to 35m.
    By Derek Doucet
    Oct 4, 2014
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    No more bolts in my opinion! It's a little spicy as is (which is part of the appeal), but totally reasonable. It's such a great route as is. No need for more. 10+ seems fair, and consistent with other Poko face pitches.
    By Jim Lawyer
    Administrator
    Oct 6, 2014

    Hi Chuck, you created a superb route here!

    I think the existing protection placement is masterful. If you think it can be longer, then yay!!! If you do, something to consider is to keep the lower anchor for those with 60m ropes? (Also, it's a useful anchor for the mixed/ice route that starts up the Thunderhead corner.) Another consideration is that this is the first pitch of an amazing, three-pitch, full-length linkup (MtS to Cirrhosis to Under the Influence).

    Glue-ins are nice for sure, but perhaps overkill for this type of rock. SS is more than adequate.