Menace To Sobriety
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Doug Kern edging up the technical face
|Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.|
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Poke-O is known for many aspects of climbing, but one in particular stands out for many climbers: Technical (read: Off-vertical) face climbing.
This route adds a more direct start to Cirrhosis, AND a full number grade of difficulty harder.
7 bolts protect the anchors and the end to a very thin and breath-taking route up a sheer, black face.
Start by mantling onto a shelf, then continue up the wall passing the crux at about 2/3 height. There are several spots along the climb where the climber will be making somewhat tenuous moves above bolts. So come armed with your vertical dancing shoes, and be sure to keep your wits together for this tremendous affair of the steep.
Locate the Thunderhead roof at the far right end of the cliff. Menace To Sobriety is the blank, black face to right with a line of bolts up it.
7 bolts and a two bolt anchor.
By Derek Doucet
Jun 10, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Linking this w/ P2 of Cirrhosis produces one of the finest 5.10 pitches at Poko, with varied, sustained and intricate climbing throughout. Highly recommended!
By Jim Lawyer
Jun 10, 2010
Derek, there's even a photo of you on this route in the guidebook!
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Oct 23, 2013
Did a hold or two break on this? Re-climbed it the other day and it felt quite a bit harder (and less enjoyable) than it did a few years back. And the person I was climbing with who had just onsighted a hard 5.11 had to hang on it....