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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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Menace To Sobriety 
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Menace To Sobriety 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Oct. 9, 1995--Charles Pechousek, Bob Cartwright
Page Views: 1,828
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 24, 2007
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Doug Kern edging up the technical face
  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Poke-O is known for many aspects of climbing, but one in particular stands out for many climbers: Technical (read: Off-vertical) face climbing.

    This route adds a more direct start to Cirrhosis, AND a full number grade of difficulty harder.

    7 bolts protect the anchors and the end to a very thin and breath-taking route up a sheer, black face.

    Start by mantling onto a shelf, then continue up the wall passing the crux at about 2/3 height. There are several spots along the climb where the climber will be making somewhat tenuous moves above bolts. So come armed with your vertical dancing shoes, and be sure to keep your wits together for this tremendous affair of the steep.


    Location 

    Locate the Thunderhead roof at the far right end of the cliff. Menace To Sobriety is the blank, black face to right with a line of bolts up it.


    Protection 

    7 bolts and a two bolt anchor.



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    By Derek Doucet
    Jun 10, 2010
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

    Linking this w/ P2 of Cirrhosis produces one of the finest 5.10 pitches at Poko, with varied, sustained and intricate climbing throughout. Highly recommended!

    By Jim Lawyer
    Administrator
    Jun 10, 2010

    Derek, there's even a photo of you on this route in the guidebook!

    By Nick Weinberg
    From: Essex, NY
    Oct 23, 2013

    Did a hold or two break on this? Re-climbed it the other day and it felt quite a bit harder (and less enjoyable) than it did a few years back. And the person I was climbing with who had just onsighted a hard 5.11 had to hang on it....