Men with Cow's Heads
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Simon Bentley belaying
Men With Cow's Heads takes the right-hand (more or less straight up) crack of the prominent Y-shaped crack formation in the middle of the Atlantis Wall. (Solar Technology (5.6) is the left-slanting crack).
This climb protects well and would make a great beginner TR or lead.
Another crack splits off to the left about 2/3 of the way up this climb. Vogel doesn't rate it as a distinct climb, but it goes at around 5.6+.
Standard rack to hand size. Long slings may come in handy for setting an anchor on top.
BETA PHOTO: 1-12-03
BETA PHOTO: Solar Technology and Men With Cow's Heads routes
Men with Cow's Heads
|Comments on Men with Cow's Heads
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Dec 3, 2005
Took a beginner friend out to this wall in Nov 05. Looking at the middle of picture, just about any line one takes up is the same rating with very good protection opportunities. It's easy to set up a TR from hiking up the backside. FYI, word is out about this area, and it is getting very popular (e.g., crowds). It's one of those semingly few places that has several easy to get to, easy to set up, easy to do routes. With that said though, a nice find.
Oct 16, 2006
A good climb. I think it is more like 5.6.
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 14, 2007
Great climb for the rating but the start is tenuous. Felt more like 5.7 - JT is like that. So I averaged to call it 5.6.
A friend was lamenting that the Winger guide has brought much attention to walls like this. But I have to count myself as one of those that might never have discovered Atlantis without it. Thanks D!
From: Boulder, CO
May 24, 2008
I second the "excellent beginner trad lead suggestion". It was my second lead ever in march 2005. I recall the crux for me was working up and beyond the big Y. I placed only passive pro (nuts and hexes).
From: Palm Desert, CA
Mar 7, 2009
Pretty fun route. Good protection as most posts already note. I would highly suggest looking at the other routes on this wall - Wegener's guide brings a number of folks out here.
|By Rodger Raubach|
Apr 5, 2011
The first few feet off the deck are a bit trickier than a 5.5 should be...the rest of the route is fine at that level. I rated it 5.6 due to the fiddling around needed to protect the first 15 feet. The rest of the climb sucks in the pro. I was tempted to give it another star...
|By BIG Climber|
From: Irvine, CA
Jun 18, 2012
This was my 1st trad lead and thought it was a great route for that purpose. I was able to place tons of gear, way more than needed, and from great stances. Just an FYI, the large bolder at the top of the route does rock a tad if being used as an anchor. It is a big rock, I used it as an anchor just fine, but I was able to rock it slightly back and forth.