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 ADVANCED
Atlantis Wall - Right
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anointed Seagull T 
Ceremony T 
Hot Crystals T 
Labyrinth, The T 
Men with Cow's Heads T 
Pocket Pussy T 
Self Abuse T 
Solar Technology T 
Taurus T 
Unwiped Butt T 
Wet Pigeon T 

Men with Cow's Heads 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Brian Sillasen, Todd Gordon & Tom Atherton, March 1988
Page Views: 2,724
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Dec 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (102)
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BETA PHOTO: Solar Technology and Men With Cow's Heads routes

Description 

Men With Cow's Heads takes the right-hand (more or less straight up) crack of the prominent Y-shaped crack formation in the middle of the Atlantis Wall. (Solar Technology (5.6) is the left-slanting crack).

This climb protects well and would make a great beginner TR or lead.

Another crack splits off to the left about 2/3 of the way up this climb. Vogel doesn't rate it as a distinct climb, but it goes at around 5.6+.

Protection 

Standard rack to hand size. Long slings may come in handy for setting an anchor on top.


Photos of Men with Cow's Heads Slideshow Add Photo
Men with Cow's Heads
Men with Cow's Heads
Simon Bentley belaying
Simon Bentley belaying
1-12-03
BETA PHOTO: 1-12-03

Comments on Men with Cow's Heads Add Comment
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Dec 3, 2005
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Took a beginner friend out to this wall in Nov 05. Looking at the middle of picture, just about any line one takes up is the same rating with very good protection opportunities. It's easy to set up a TR from hiking up the backside. FYI, word is out about this area, and it is getting very popular (e.g., crowds). It's one of those semingly few places that has several easy to get to, easy to set up, easy to do routes. With that said though, a nice find.
By Blitzo
Oct 16, 2006

A good climb. I think it is more like 5.6.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 14, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Great climb for the rating but the start is tenuous. Felt more like 5.7 - JT is like that. So I averaged to call it 5.6.

A friend was lamenting that the Winger guide has brought much attention to walls like this. But I have to count myself as one of those that might never have discovered Atlantis without it. Thanks D!
By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
May 24, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I second the "excellent beginner trad lead suggestion". It was my second lead ever in march 2005. I recall the crux for me was working up and beyond the big Y. I placed only passive pro (nuts and hexes).
By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Mar 7, 2009

Pretty fun route. Good protection as most posts already note. I would highly suggest looking at the other routes on this wall - Wegener's guide brings a number of folks out here.
By Rodger Raubach
Apr 5, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The first few feet off the deck are a bit trickier than a 5.5 should be...the rest of the route is fine at that level. I rated it 5.6 due to the fiddling around needed to protect the first 15 feet. The rest of the climb sucks in the pro. I was tempted to give it another star...
By BIG Climber
From: Irvine, CA
Jun 18, 2012

This was my 1st trad lead and thought it was a great route for that purpose. I was able to place tons of gear, way more than needed, and from great stances. Just an FYI, the large bolder at the top of the route does rock a tad if being used as an anchor. It is a big rock, I used it as an anchor just fine, but I was able to rock it slightly back and forth.