Men Only  5.10 R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  J. Achey, K. Lugbill, 1980 Season:  Faces West into shade Submitted By:  Tony B on Aug 13, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>> The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July: The Goose Goose Eggs East Ridge Mars Block Nebel Horn Tower of the Moon Jamcrack Spire The Pyramid Incognito Crag Devil's Thumb Shadow Fax Isolation Rock Sunset Wall Devil's Wing (W. Face) The Matron Lost & Found The Sibling Toddler Rock Sphinx Medusa Details. In addition, Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

This is a climb of questionable origin that lost 50% of its good holds on the last attempted ascent. A chipmunk could have pulled some of these off.

The books suggest that the route lies 50 feet down the hill from the obvious corner of Fertile Crescent, atop a large boulder. This place is pretty clear. The book suggests keeping to the left crack alone, but this is something I take issue with, as almost everything I touched broke or outright fell off the wall. After a few attempts at climbing the choss and seeing the fall, despite protection, would land me on the boulder-spike just below, I decided to include the crack on the right. The difficulty was still ~10b.

This climb steps onto an overhang at a knobby, flaky crack. I broke off the first foothold the first time I stepped up. I cracked off the flake I was pinching the second time I stepped up. The third time I went up I broke off the edge of a crack with my jam. The gear was grinding out flakes when I attempted to set it.

I have *NO IDEA* how this could get a star.

Eventually I pulled up and onto the rock and decided to head right into the other crack. I bumped the face with my left elbow when moving, and as if to punctuate my decision, a chunk of choss fell off of the wall where my elbow had touched.

I finished on the crack on the right. Coming down, I cleaned the crack on the left. In fact, I cleaned most of the holds off of it. Maybe the next guy up will find it enjoyable... or at least have a shot at survival.

Location 

Downhill 50 from Fertile Crescent, there is a steep overhang at the base of the wall. In one place, a large boulder looms just below where a crack through this overhang converts to a shallow, overhanging, right-facing corner. Just right of this corner is a second crack in darker rock. Climb up these crack systems (buyer beware) and to a tree on a ledge above.

Protection 

Bring protection from small-to-medium nuts and cams and up to 3". If the rock were good, the pro would be too... but it isn't. The webbing around the tree up top is a record breaker in terms of bad quality. So old it has rock-matching lichen on it. Do not use it! (Replace or rap off of the tree directly.)