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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Men In White Suits 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Eric Mushial 1991
Page Views: 1,430
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 10, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Ross below the topout crux. Green rope to left is ...

Description 

Up the hill and left from the rest of the routes in this section almost to the Venus wall, you will find a lone sport route starting from a ledge with a birch tree growing from it.

The route starts with a scramble to the ledge, belay from the ground.Climb a few moves up and right on easy ground, then up over a small bulge with pocket moves and a good rest after. Finally, tackle the upper steep overhang. This is cruxy but not too bad if you use the right holds, so climb smart.

A fun route that I rarely see people on, so it might be a good one for a busy day.


Location 

Up the hill and left from the rest of the routes in this section almost to the Venus wall you will find a lone sport route starting from a ledge with a birch tree growing from it. climb it.


Protection 

5 bolts to anchor. A runner for the birch tree will make you feel better as you climb to the high first bolt. Runners also help for top roping it because the anchor is back from the edge. Rapping rather than lowering from this anchor may save your rope some wear.



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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 26, 2007

The original manky bolts (it was Eric's first attempt at bolting a route!) have been replaced with 5 new glue-ins. It is still not a bad idea to sling the tree before going for the first bolt, but the start has been cleaned up, making it more secure. This is a good route to rap off of, rather than lower, as the anchors are set back a bit.

Now no longer so lonesome now that Rainbow, to the left, is being retroed.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Mar 21, 2012

The crux seemed a bit shy of 5.9 to me. Maybe it's because I am 6 feet tall? Anyways, good holds on the overhang, don't be afraid! A good lead, and a good ice breaker for the 5.9 grade.