|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Jim McCarthy and Hans Kraus|
|Submitted By:||Chris Hillios on Oct 19, 2008|
|Comments on Men At Arms||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Mar 10, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Good write up for this route, I followed the description in the Grey Dick, which advised me to build a belay on a tiny stance with small gear. A 5.9/.10- move came right after the belay, I would have crashed into my partner and compromised the integrity of our less than perfect anchor (read: aided through on little c3 cams). After that, I climbed pretty much straight up to the GTL. This got interesting, as rock quality was okay but fallen trees attached to not much were pointing downward aimed at me like a missile. Big lumps of mushroom shaped unconsolidated dirt. Ick.
In short, keep you head together for the move of the ledge down low, bust a right to the Try Again anchors at the top, and enjoy this otherwise fine climb.
By Dan Flynn
Jul 1, 2011
|I got to the stance at the end of P1 (according to Grey Dick), and like lucander decided there was no way to build a solid belay there. Went up right around short corner, then back left towards blunt arete. Lots of possible paths on the face, just keep moving up to the top.|
Apr 12, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No need to build an intermediate anchor. Just go all the way to the Try Again chains.
I can't decide if I like this climb: the moves are fun but you keep zigzagging left and right. I guess it's a great climb if you like making diagonal reaches.
The Trapps app has a fairly accurate picture of the line.