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Redgarden - Tower One
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Memory Lapse 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Culp
Page Views: 273
Submitted By: Paul S on May 22, 2007
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  • Description 

    The climbing on this route is fairly fun, and a nice way to get in another quick climb at the end of the day after doing another route near by. The route climbs up to a short, left-facing corner with a weird crack/slot in it that won't really take gear. Continue up to some rotten rock, and make a tricky move left with bad feet. One more tricky section moves up and right, then pick your path to the top via easy face climbing. For the most part, the holds are huge but the route has a few sections with questionable rock.


    Location 

    This route is hard to discern from the other routes in the Smoke and Mirrors area using Rossiter's guide. This route starts behind a huge fin roughly half between the start of Smoke and Mirrors and the large tree to the far climbers right on the Italian Arete Ledge. Look for the small, left-facing corner that Rossiter mentions.


    Protection 

    A standard rack. Pro can be pretty tricky or just bad due to the quality of rock, but every now and then good gear is available.



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    By Mic Fairchild
    From: Boulder
    Mar 29, 2008

    Did this route (on-sight, free solo) in 1998, but attributed it to Culp after conversation w/ him revealed he had some memory of being in the vicinity in the 'olden days'. Not entirely sure if this was his creation, but it seemed to be the only line that would've been done before 'Smoke & Mirrors' went in, so he gets credit.