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Memo From Lloyd 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 962
Submitted By: Greg DeMatteo on Apr 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Beautiful evening

Description 

A steep, boulder problem of a route, it is the obvious crack on the right side of the dome. Start up the VERY steep wall with a big flake, and then into a straight-up crack with knobs all around. While the crux is down low and difficult to protect (only because the wall is so steep) if you can boulder through you will find good rests and ample protection. A two-bolt anchor with rap rings awaits at the top


Protection 

Mostly thin pro, nuts and TCU's, perhaps up to a .75 camalot.



Photos of Memo From Lloyd Slideshow Add Photo
Placing the first piece on Memo From Lloyd.  Fri 2 Sep 2011.
Placing the first piece on Memo From Lloyd. Fri 2...
Leading up Memo From Lloyd.  Fri 2 Sep 2011.
Leading up Memo From Lloyd. Fri 2 Sep 2011.
Comments on Memo From Lloyd Add Comment
Show which comments
By Josh Audrey
From: LAS VEGAS
Jul 24, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Felt more like an 11 than 10+, but I'm not strong.

By peachy spohn
Sep 4, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

In the new Supertopo Memo From Llyod was upgraded to 11b.

By Lukasz M Fidkowski
From: Berkeley, California
Aug 5, 2012

You can place up to #2 camalot on this route