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The Ocean
Routes Sorted
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Boat Ramp S 
Brain Cramp T,S 
Learn to Swim S 
Members Only S 
Powerdrill and Peckerheads S 
Sex on the Beach T,S 
Subversive Behavior S 

Members Only 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Glenn Cilley?
Page Views: 796
Submitted By: Michael Z. on Oct 23, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Members Only 5.12A


I just know this is what everybody is looking for in a rock climb. Nearly one hundred feet of intense slabbing!

After clipping the first bolt of Sex on the Beach break right and step onto a horizontal crack (red Camalot). Now on to the business micro crimp, edge, palm, and whatever else you can do to keep moving upward. Nearing the top the climbing seems to ease some.

For the nature of this route I found the clipping stances far less than horrendous. They are actually quite friendly adding to the enjoyability of this steep slab.


Same as Sex on the Beach


11 bolts to chains, optional cam down low.

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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 24, 2011

By burlap submariner
Oct 30, 2011

By David Powers
Nov 5, 2011

I bet this route has seen very few redpoints. Very hard for .12a.
By burlap submariner
May 30, 2012

This is the best well protected 12 slab in NH, strando would be proud.
By Glenn Cilley
From: Laconia, NH
May 30, 2012

thanks burlap
By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 11, 2013

I THINK this is where Scotty took me one time around "85 or so...we didn;t do anything.. except fall off

congrats all !!
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