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Melting Point 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brian and Jonathon Smoot 1990
Page Views: 2,361
Submitted By: Spencer Anderson on Jun 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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Climbing Melting Point

Description 

Second route as you arrive to the wall. Climbs just right of the huge roof.

Fun climb. Probably only a one star but I gave it two because it's long single pitch route. Tough start but eases up, then leads to another 5.10 move, eases again then the final crux before the chains. A lot of, almost too good, resting spots on this route.

Protection 

9 quickdraws for bolts and fixed pins with a two anchors at the top. Bring a longer rope.


Photos of Melting Point Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin Jessing pulling out of the 5.10a crux.
Kevin Jessing pulling out of the 5.10a crux.
S-Curve: Melting Point
BETA PHOTO: S-Curve: Melting Point
Climbing Melting Point
BETA PHOTO: Climbing Melting Point

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 29, 2014
By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
Aug 7, 2004

This route has some really cool moves, but is not sustained at all. A tricky opening sequence leads to a long section of easy rock. The upper wall (bolts 5 through 7) is really good. Steep jug haul that makes this route.

Make sure to have a 60m rope for the rap. Otherwise, use the intermediate rap station just to the right for 2 rappels.
By Nathan Fisher
May 22, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Good route, with good exposure and length. That being the reason I gave 2 stars. Otherwise the long expanse of easy moves detract.
By Tolga Tasdizen
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 24, 2005

Sort of decked on this route today. After clipping the first bolt, couldn't go straight up so I went 4-5 feet to the right like I have done many times before. I had just cleared the lip (probably 7-8 feet diagonally from the first bolt) when my right hand hold broke. The rope started catching probably a few feet off the ground, but I still hit with my left side. Luckily, I hit a few feet from the rock at the base so I am fine except for some bruises on my left arm, knee and hip. We left the draw on the first bolt and headed home... Just a heads up for others who like going to the right after the first bolt like me... you are going to be missing a hold there!
By L. Hamilton
Oct 14, 2006

Did this route for the first time yesterday, Friday the 13th, and noticed that the first bolt is placed just above a lip so your biner levers across the edge. One of the higher bolts (the 2nd?) had a similar placement. In both cases, threading a sling through the hanger looked better than clipping directly.

Nice climb, though.
By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Sep 19, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

60m rope doesn't quite make it. It's short like 3 feet. It was close enough that I could get down by grabbing the rope on the other end and lowering myself the last 3 feet without the ATC. This could be a classic climb if it wasn't for the horrible bolts on it. The second bolt is one of those old bolts that doesn't have a high strength rating. Another bolt spins (not good). And the first bolt on the second crux is barely out of reach from the comfortable ledge after the long run-out. I recommend putting another bolt before it, or you could find somewhere to place some pro. After the second crux, the only protection you have is 2 old pitons. The first one looks ok, but the second looks pretty sketchy!! The top anchors look kind of bad too, but they work. I would recommend changing them, but since I've never put in bolts nor do I have the equipment, I can't do it. Overall awesome climb. It would be a classic if it had better protection!
By Alec
May 13, 2008

Rappelled this with two ropes today. The anchors are the highest on the wall so I don't think a 60 would cut it.
By Lucas J Matthews
Sep 21, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I fail to distinguish this route from "Clastic Cling" (10d).
By Daniel Winder
Sep 22, 2010

Clastic Cling is the line just to the right. It joins Melting Point just after the final roof. Climbs very similarly to MP but is harder to get off the deck.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 24, 2011

You can rappel (but not lower) with a 60.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 8, 2013

The intended start on the leaning rail just underneath the right of the first bolt gives the full 5.10b rating. Starting several feet left leads to slightly easier holds but requires you to traverse under the bolt. Either way a stick clip is recommended.
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
May 29, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Hard up till second bolt, then eases up considerably. Too many resting spots to warrant 10b in my opinion. Really enjoyed the height and exposure