Melting Into Madness
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Climbing out of the steep section of the shallow d...
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A really fun .10 with lots of really big jugs interspersed between nice pockets and crimps. This has two pitches and the first has two variations - one in the dihedral and one on the face but I'm not sure how those guys meant for it to go. I just know if you link both pitches together in one long pitch its a really fun climb. Just enough jugs and rests to avoid being .11
a shallow dihedral on the middle to left of the Far East Gate.
10 or 20 (or 21?) draws with some being long runners if you want to link both pitches, a 70m rope gets up and back down to the ground.
2 clips in, only 18 clips to go...
Looking for the next move on The Bird is the Word,...
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jul 12, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
The second pitch is named The Bird is the Word and is rated 5.10d, just like Melting Into Madness; however, it is still best to be linked as one long pitch.
Jul 10, 2008
Nice climb -- business is getting past the hump above the dihedral. Felt a bit easier than .10d, though I didn't do the second pitch.
By Ben Folsom
Aug 7, 2010
As Ryan said, really nice as one long pitch. A 70m gets you down no problem.