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The Melting Mud Wall
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Melting Into Madness 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tyler, Greg, Aaron, Zack
Page Views: 2,634
Submitted By: tenesmus on May 9, 2007

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Climbing out of the steep section of the shallow d...

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  • Description 

    A really fun .10 with lots of really big jugs interspersed between nice pockets and crimps. This has two pitches and the first has two variations - one in the dihedral and one on the face but I'm not sure how those guys meant for it to go. I just know if you link both pitches together in one long pitch its a really fun climb. Just enough jugs and rests to avoid being .11

    Location 

    a shallow dihedral on the middle to left of the Far East Gate.

    Protection 

    10 or 20 (or 21?) draws with some being long runners if you want to link both pitches, a 70m rope gets up and back down to the ground.


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    By Ryan Brough
    From: Arvada, Colorado
    Jul 12, 2007
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    The second pitch is named The Bird is the Word and is rated 5.10d, just like Melting Into Madness; however, it is still best to be linked as one long pitch.
    By Alec
    Jul 10, 2008

    Nice climb -- business is getting past the hump above the dihedral. Felt a bit easier than .10d, though I didn't do the second pitch.
    By Ben Folsom
    Aug 7, 2010

    As Ryan said, really nice as one long pitch. A 70m gets you down no problem.